Sat, May 27, 2017 page13

• Ian’s Table: A hint of ginseng

  Talinum, also called “wild ginseng,” provides plenty of health benefits without the high cost of the exotic medicinal root

  • By Ian Bartholomew / Contributing reporter
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  The search for fresh local green things to put on a plate continues at our home in Hualien and it is an endless surprise what can be discovered with just a little exploration along the fringes of local traditional markets. Talinum (土人蔘, 巴蔘), my most recent discovery, has proved a great success and has become part of the family diet. Like tetragon, which we looked at early this month, it is sometimes regarded as a substitute for spinach, but really, it doesn’t need to be a substitute for anything and has many interesting applications in the kitchen.

  Talinum is certainly not a name with which most cooks will be familiar. Its common names are even more exotic, including fameflower and Jewels of Opar, and it makes a very pretty display in the market. But as with many of these unconventional vegetables, unfamiliarity can make them off-putting. Trying to work out exactly what species the vague Chinese term refers to is confusing, and I have seen it linked with Talinum panticulatum, Talinum fruticosum, and Talinum triangulare, plants that can be found throughout Latin America, the Caribbean and West Africa. Talinum features occasionally in Southeast Asian cuisine, and is present in Thai cuisine under the name som kon and in Malay food as genseng halus. It is said to be used extensively as a vegetable in West Africa, particularly Nigeria.

  While I am not enough of a botanist to work out exactly which kind of talinum is being sold by my regular “unusual veg” lady at the local market, these different species do seem to have similar traits and various cross references see them all appear under the Chinese name of “wild ginseng” (土人蔘). This name clearly has substantial appeal in Taiwan, and while talinum is not in any way, shape or form a relation to the medicinal root, it is thought to have some of its tonic effects. Talinum does have a slight taste of ginseng, and even if it only has a fraction of its potency as a medicine, at NT$20 a bunch there is really not much to complain about.

  

  Talinum omelet with spicy sausage makes for a lovely dish that takes only minutes to prepare.

  Photo: Ian Bartholomew

  My “unusual veg” lady emphasized that it was excellent for brain function and a real boon for the memory, and other sources laud its benefits to the gastrointestinal tract and as an anti-inflammatory. Anecdotal sources praise it as everything from an aphrodisiac to a hangover cure (the former using a decoction of the soft woody stem — just in case you are interested).

  Talinum is one of those plants in which nothing is wasted. The leaves can be eaten raw, and the tender shoots are especially delicious tossed into a salad. The more mature leaves can be fried quickly with a bit of ginger and chili for an excellent vegetable side dish, or it can be added to soups and broths. The leaves have a mucinous quality rather like okra, but this can be minimized through very rapid cooking. On the other hand, soups can benefit from this quality if you regard a viscous broth as something to be savored. Once the leaves have been removed, the stems can be used to make soup (definitely preferable to using the leaves for this purpose) or infuse tea. The roots can be steamed and dried before being stored for long periods. Aged roots command a premium for their enhanced medicinal properties.

  Apart from the slight bitterness of ginseng, which makes me want to pair it indiscriminately with goji berries, talinum is balanced with a subtle sweetness of its own, particularly in the tender shoots and flowers, which are a readymade garnish. Its texture is similar to Madeira vine (Anredera cordifolia, 川七), though less assertive, making it amenable to winter preparations such as Madeira vine in sesame oil — though it probably wouldn’t look as attractive with its thin, elongated leaves.

  

  Talinum, with its pretty pink flowers, makes attractive dishes of even the simplest preparations.

  Photo: Ian Bartholomew

  For those looking to prepare talinum in a more Western style, inspiration can be taken from the use of purslane, which though widely used in Middle Eastern and Eastern European cuisine, has largely been banished from the menus of America and Western Europe. Perhaps its time to bring this versatile vegetable back as well?

  Talinum offers great prospects for culinary exploration and has all the advantages of “foraged” vegetables, with much reduced danger from chemical residues. It should be noted, though, that because of its high oxalic acid content, talinum is not recommended for those suffering from kidney disorders, gout and rheumatoid arthritis.

  Talinum Omelet with Spicy Sausage

  Recipe

  (serves two)

  It’s a bit of a cheat to offer an omelet as a recipe, as who doesn’t know how to toss some eggs into a pan with a few bits and pieces. That said, through various experiments in the kitchen, I have found that talinum is a perfect example for the old adage that “less is more.” The less you mess with it, the better it tastes, making for a skillet meal that comes together in minutes. The egg also seems to mitigate the talinum’s mucinous quality, making the dish more acceptable to children (in very limited home testing). The addition of thin slices of spicy Hunan sausage completed this dish for me, and some robust chorizo would probably prove just as effective.

  Ingredients

  4 eggs

  1 stem scallion, finely chopped

  1 tsp light soy

  1/8 tsp light sesame oil

  pinch of white pepper

  2 tbsp chicken or vegetable stock

  1 small bunch talinum

  1 tbsp olive oil

  salt

  steamed spicy Hunan sausage (optional)

  Directions

  1. Wash the talinum thoroughly then remove the leaves from the stems. Set the flowers and tenderest shoots aside.

  2. Lightly beat the eggs together with the scallions, soy, sesame oil, stock and pepper.

  3. Heat a non-stick skillet and add the olive oil. Over medium heat, add the egg mixture.

  4. Cook for 30 seconds until the mixture begins to firm up, then add the talinum, mixing roughly to break up the egg. Season lightly with salt and top with slices of steamed Hunan sausage (if using).

  Ian Bartholomew runs Ian’s Table,a small guesthouse in Hualien. He has lived in Taiwan for many years writing about the food scene and has decided that until you look at farming, you know nothing about the food you eat. He can be contacted at Hualien202@gmail.com.
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