One of the favorite places for Japanese businessmen visiting Taipei is a cozy place on the southern perimeter of the Combat Zone called Hatsuho.
The proprietress of Hatsuho is Tsai Bai-hui (蔡百惠), who, 16 years ago this week, decided that she liked Japanese food so much that she wanted to open a restaurant. So, although she didn't know very much about Japanese cooking at the time -- and knew even less about the language -- Tsai opened up her first location in a lane off Nanjing East Road. She chose the name "Hatsuho" (roughly translated, "fresh wheat") because she thought it "had a nice ring to it."
PHOTO: STEPHEN A. NELSON
Fortune, it would seem, favors the bold. Hatsuho became a magnet for Japanese businessmen, some of whom gave Tsai the chance to go Osaka to learn how to cook the right way (i.e., the Japanese way).
Hatsuho grew and moved around a few times before settling into its current digs where it is now attracting a lot of walk-in traffic as well.
On our recent visit, we started with the yakitori (marinated chicken pieces grilled on skewers, NT$80) and the grilled liver kebabs (NT$80). These were well-cooked, tender and tasty, although the latter were definitely for liver lovers only.
Then it was on to the next course -- a platter of sashimi (NT$320) which, in this case, comprised very thin, bite-size slices of very fresh, raw salmon. It was served with a potent mix of soy sauce and wasabi, and tasted -- my friend said -- "yummy and expensive."
But these starters were not what we had gone there for. Hatsuho is best-known for its okonomiyaki, a kind of Japanese potato pancake that can be filled with different kinds of meat and/or vegetables. Hatsuho has six kinds of okonomiyaki.
We opted for the one with a beef filling (NT$260). It was topped with a lacework of butter (or was that mayonnaise?) and what my friend called "Japanese HP sauce." It was savory and satisfying, without being too heavy.
If you decide to try it, be forewarned: it also comes with the traditional Japanese topping of fish flakes, which, if you're not ready for them, can be as off-putting as the very first time you saw hairy pork on your spaghetti.
To complete the Japanese experience, Hatsuho has a selection of Japanese beers, including a large draft beer for NT$140. It also has very good sake for about NT$160 a glass or NT$1,300 a bottle.
On the whole, the meal was an enjoyable and fulfilling experience, even if some might think it was a bit pricey. The budget-conscious can try the lunchtime set meals (NT$160-NT$250).
For us, there was only one real disappointment: Although Hatsuho is a "Japanese" restaurant, we could not get any Japanese green tea. Apparently, it's been given over in favor of Oolong tea, which is more popular with the regular clientele. The consolation is that the Oolong is complimentary with the meal.
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