There is no name under which wood ear fungus (黑木耳) is known that manages to make it appealing. This is a shame as it is a wonderful food that is remarkably easy to use and full of healthful benefits. It’s proper name, auricularia auricula-judae sets it up for controversy, as this translates as Jew’s ear, with all the consequent possibilities for antisemitic references.
The fungus is also known as jelly ear, a term that is unattractive but has the advantage of being descriptive, as the wood ear fungus does indeed have a slightly gelatinous texture when raw and bears vague similarities to an elephant ear.
THE STORY OF THE JEW’S EAR
Photo: Ian Bartholomew
Wood ear fungus has some history in the west and there are records of its use in the 19th century in the treatment of sore throats and jaundice, but it is not widely consumed nowadays and is generally available only in Asian markets.
The etymology of Jew’s ear is interesting in itself, even if this common name has fallen out of favor today. Indeed, there have even been moves to alter its scientific appellation to something less controversial. The name is said to be a reference to Judas Iscariot as the fungus is often found on the wood of elder trees, a tree from which Judas is said to have hung himself after his betrayal of Jesus. Various sources in the debate over nomenclature have argued that the “Jew” in Jew’s ear references Judas, who was a Jew, rather than the Jewish people, and so is not antisemitic. For all that, wood fungus now seems to be the preferred term.
Photo: Ian Bartholomew
As a matter of clarification, wood ear fungus is closely related to cloud ear fungus (auricularia polytricha). There are many similarities in appearance and the two may often be used interchangeably in the market, though technically cloud ear fungus should be known as hairy wood ear (毛木耳 ).
The wood ear fungus has all the notable features of a modern health food. This starts with its low caloric count, followed by its richness in amino acids, vitamins, minerals and antioxidants. To obtain its benefits most directly, Taiwanese cooks make the gelatinous ear into a sweet thick soup that can be drunk as a tonic or desert. The most common appearance of wood ear fungus in Taiwan is in the ubiquitous sour-hot soup (酸辣湯) that is inevitably served at dumpling houses as well as northern Chinese eateries. It also makes an appearance as a cold dish (very much an acquired taste) and in the classic dish of mooshu fried noodles (see recipe).
Fresh wood ear fungus can be found throughout the year in supermarkets. The fungus is also available in dry form which can keep in the pantry for months. To reconstitute the dried fungus, just soak in water for about eight hours. Depending on the texture you prefer, fresh wood ear fungus can also be soaked before cooking for up to 10 minutes, but if you prefer a crunchy texture, a quick rinse in water is sufficient.
MOOSHU UP CLOSE
Mooshu noodles are a classic of northern Chinese cuisine and like many a classic dish there are about as many ways of preparing it as there are cooks. Given its extreme simplicity, this is quite an achievement. And it is not only the method that comes in for heated debate. The very name has given rise to much misunderstanding and much ink has been used in efforts to clarify its provenance.
It is a common misconception that the “mooshu” (木須) in the name refers to wood ear fungus, which is one of only three fixed elements in this dish. The other two ingredients being eggs and noodles. Of course, as any Taiwanese person with gastronomic pretensions knows, the reference to “wood” in “mooshu” is a complete red herring, and will tell you in tones that conveys the profound mystery inherent in the complexities of Chinese culinary culture that mooshu noodles is nothing more than fried noodles with eggs.
The reason why the dish is called mooshu noodles involves a hugely convoluted digression involving the imperial court of China, eunuchs, their sensitivities in regard to their missing bits, associations between eggs and testicles and, of course, the much beloved obscure literary reference and homophone. The sound “mooshu” is a homophone for the mu-xu flower (木樨花), which is an alternative and little known reference to the osmanthus flower, which has a yellow and white coloration, that may, if you try very hard, resemble the colors of lightly scrabbled eggs.
Mooshu Fried Noodles
(serves four)
That mystery having been clarified, there does not seem to be any particularly good reason why mooshu noodles should have any association with wood ear fungus, but in the many and various preparations going under that name that I have had in many parts of the Chinese-speaking world, it is the only element, in addition to the eggs and the noodles themselves, that is invariably present. Why that should be does not seem to be a matter of much concern to anyone, but be that as it may, mooshu noodles is a simple and really rather delicious dish that can be whipped up in 20 minutes with whatever you have in the fridge.
The addition of bean sprouts, cabbage or other leaf vegetables are common, the use of pork rather than beef is the norm in Taiwan and the dish as a whole can be given additional freshness with a garnish of spring onions, chili or cilantro. Sometimes a dash of black vinegar is added. A wide range of noodles can also be used, but in so far as this dish can claim to have an “authentic” version, firm wheat noodles such as Chinese lamian (拉麵, pulled noodles, not to be confused with Japanese ramen) or cut noodles (刀削麵) are generally best as they are able to absorb the sauce without becoming soggy.
Ingredients
400g wheat flour noodles
100g wood ear fungus
150g beef (tenderloin), sliced
4 eggs
1 medium carrot, julienned
Small bunch of bok choy
2 stems spring onions, chopped into short lengths
1 tbsp light soy
1 tbsp thick soy
200ml vegetable stock
1 tsp white pepper plus a bit extra
1 tsp corn starch
50 ml vegetable oil
50 ml water
1 tsp sesame oil
Directions
1. Wash the wood ear fungus thoroughly then cut away the hard stem at the center. Cut into thin strips and set aside.
2. Place the beef with light soy, a good pinch of white pepper and corn starch in a bowl and mix well. Set aside.
3. In a large pot, bring water to a boil and cook the noodles until cooked through but still firm. The time required can vary considerably depending on the type and thickness of noodles you use.
4. Heat a wok and add 1 tbsp of vegetable oil. Over medium heat, fry the shredded wood ear fungus for about two minutes. Remove to a plate.
5. Beat the eggs with 50ml of water. Heat the same wok and add 2 tbsp of vegetable oil. Over high heat, pour the egg into the oil, mixing the egg and allowing the edges to become golden brown and crispy. Remove to a plate.
6. Reduce the heat on the wok to medium and add 1 tbsp of oil. Add the spring onion and carrots and fry lightly for about 2 minutes.
7. Add the marinated beef and fry until partially cooked and gaining color, about 1 minute, then add the vegetable stock. Add the noodles and stir vigorously to mix. Add the egg and wood ear fungus and mix further, cooking and stirring until the liquid thickens.
8. Add the bok choy or other leaves and allow to wilt, about 30 seconds.
9. Add thick soy, sesame oil and season with salt and white pepper to taste.
10. Serve hot.
Ian Bartholomew runs Ian’s Table, a small guesthouse in Hualien. He has lived in Taiwan for many years writing about the food scene and has decided that until you look at farming, you know nothing about the food you eat. He can be contacted at Hualien202@gmail.com.
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