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[RESTAURANT REVIEW] Rakumenya (樂麵屋日式拉麵)

The simplest of dishes is often the best at Rakumenya. PHOTO: IAN BARTHOLOMEW, TAIPEI TIMES

Rakumenya is one of those little eateries that has nothing especially distinctive about it except its reputation. When it opened in 2006, it quickly established itself as a favorite with Japanese expatriates and ramen cognoscenti who go there because the food makes few concessions to local tastes. With prices slightly above what you would expect to pay at any of the major ramen chain restaurants and presentation that is decidedly simpler, Rakumenya’s appeal relies squarely on the quality of the food.

The decor is somewhat characterless and the glass cabinet of bland appetizers, often rather haphazardly arranged, is rather off-putting. But the bar running along the front of the open kitchen is a boon for lone diners.

A closer look at the colorful picture menu shows that it is not big on variety. Ramen is available in original stock, soy sauce stock, fried onion stock or chili stock, with or without extra sliced roast pork — but that’s about it. Prices are NT$180 to NT$250 a bowl. Dry noodles (recently introduced) and rice dishes appear to be something of an afterthought.

Rakumenya (樂麵屋日式拉麵) Address: 7, Ln 10, Yongkang St, Taipei City (台北市大安區永康街10巷7號) Telephone: (02) 2395-1787 Open: 11:30am to 10pm Average meal: NT$300 Details: Picture menu with Chinese and Japanese; credit cards not accepted

Guests are asked to fill out a short questionnaire before ordering, outlining their ramen preferences. In addition to choosing the stock, you are asked whether you want it rich (as preferred in Japan), medium or light; whether you want thick or thin noodles (the thin ones are a Kyushu specialty and are highly recommended) and whether you want the noodles al dente, regular (generally preferred by locals, according to the printed info) or soft. It takes a few visits to work out your preferred combination, but if you want to be overwhelmed with flavor, the rich Japanese-style stock should be tried; and if you like Italian spaghetti properly made, then you’re likely to appreciate the Kyushu noodles al dente as well. Topped with crisp soy beans and shredded Japanese mizuna, the whole bowl of noodles has a “built” feeling, revealing different aspects of itself as you delve into it. Extra portions of noodles are available at no extra cost if you want more carbs to soak up the flavorful soup that is left at the bottom of the bowl.

The Tokyo-style pot stickers (NT$60) are crisp and light, if on occasion a tad oily. Compared to the heartiness of Northern Chinese pot stickers, these are dainty affairs, the filling a light paste of pork and scallions that contrast with the thin crisp skin that wraps them. Asahi Beer (big bottles, NT$120) and a basic sake (NT$140) are available to wash down your meal.


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