Kanpai Classic (老乾杯) seemed like a promising Japanese barbecue restaurant. Its Chinese name had the word ganbei (乾杯) in it, which means to “empty your glass.” The establishment boasts a world-class chef who participated as a finalist in the Washoku World Challenge in Tokyo last year.
The process of finding the restaurant took me and a friend on a wild goose chase from the intersection of Zhongxiao Dunhua (忠孝敦化) to Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall (國父紀念館). The fact that Kanpai has over a dozen branches with different variations of the name and some just a block away from each other, only confused us. The branches are a mixture of casual joints with open-air seating and wooden benches, as well as fancier dining — meat served on stoneware adorned with delicate garnishing rather than meat slapped straight on the grill. Of course, we chose the latter.
One server signals another waiter who shows us to our table. Both seem puzzled at the sight of customers. But perhaps we’ve just arrived early for dinner. The interior, while sleek, is a bit odd — inside is a large communal table in the center and four-seaters to the side. By the time we peek at the prices, our waiter has already set up the grill and poured our complimentary roasted barley tea. NT$1,480 was the cheapest set.
Photo: Dana Ter, Taipei Times
So much for being connoisseurs. We settle for the NT$1,480 wagyu set, which consists of four types of wagyu beef. To pair with it, we order the seasonable vegetable plate (NT$220) and the boiled abalone with escargot butter (NT$320).
The wagyu came served on a stoneware plate with leafy garnishing — some edible and others not. The four types of beef we ordered included dried wagyu beef with wasabi and butter, the kanpai classic with barbecue sauce, the wagyu intercostal and a brisket topped with Japanese radish and vinegar.
The dried wagyu beef was tender and juicy with buttery undertones that made it very delectable. On the other hand, the wasabi was barely discernable. That didn’t matter though, as the beef was tasty as it was. We had also cooked it such that it was slightly charred on the outside and tender on the inside. My favorite, however, was the kanpai classic. It was leaner than the first beef and thinly sliced, making it soft and chewy, while the barbecue sauce added an extra flavorful kick.
Photo: Dana Ter, Taipei Times
I didn’t care too much for the intercostals. The sauce it had been marinating in when it arrived on our plate was far too saccharine sweet. Not only that, the meat was so fatty that it was difficult to digest. The brisket fared slightly better. It was a bit dry, in contrast to the fatty intercostals, but it was still tender, with the vinegar lending a savory kick. So it was two-for-two for the wagyu, which was a bit disappointing, but at least next time, I’ll know to stick with the dried wagyu beef and the kanpai classic.
The vegetable plate was quite standard, consisting of mushrooms, baby corn, chili pepper, bamboo and Chinese yam. The veggies provided a nice complement to the meat, giving it a variety of flavor and texture. The baby corn and chili peppers were my favorite, as the corn was delicate yet crunchy, while the spice from the chili pepper helped to enliven the palate.
Probably the tastiest dish we ordered was the boiled abalone. Succulent and chewy with garlicy undertones, it simmered in the escargot butter sauce. The bits of garlic accentuated the aromatic taste and the squeezed lemon added a tangy dimension. Meanwhile, the mushrooms from the veggie plate was a good complement to the abalone, providing for a blander, burnt taste.
Photo: Dana Ter, Taipei Times
The meal, while decent, wasn’t worth over NT$2,000 a head. That being said, winter is a good time to eat Japanese barbecue, and patrons are better off trying one of the cheaper Kanpai branches where there’s no need to fork out money for frills. As for myself, I think I need to lay off the fatty meat for a bit.
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