Mon, Aug 10, 2009 - Page 14 News List

Haggis invented ‘by the English’ not the Scots 蘇格蘭「肚包羊雜」實源自英格蘭

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A food historian has claimed Scotland’s famous delicacy haggis was invented by the English before being hijacked by Scottish nationalists as their own, according to reports.

Historian Catherine Brown said she has discovered references to the dish in a recipe book dated 1616 and titled “The English Hus-Wife”.

The book, by Gervase Markham, was published at least 171 years before Scotland’s national bard Robert Burns penned his poem, “Address to the Haggis”, which made the dish famous, according to the Daily Telegraph.

The first mention Brown could find of Scottish haggis was in 1747, indicating that the dish originated south of Scotland and was later copied from English books, the reports said.

“It was originally an English dish. In 1615, Gervase Markham says that it is very popular among all people in England,” she said.

“By the middle of the 18th century another English cookery writer, Hannah Glasse, has a recipe that she calls Scotch haggis, the haggis that we know today.”

The claim by Brown, whose findings featured in a TV documentary screened last week on STV in Scotland, is sure to irritate many Scots, given their traditional rivalry with England and affection for the dish.

Haggis, sheep’s heart and lungs chopped up with spices and oatmeal, stuffed into a sheep’s stomach and boiled, is often served with a glass of Scotch whisky.

(AFP)

據報載,一位專門研究食物史的史學工作者宣稱,蘇格蘭著名佳餚肚包羊雜其實是英格蘭人發明的,結果卻被蘇格蘭愛國主義者捷足先登。

史學工作者凱薩琳.布朗說,她在一本著於一六一六年的「英格蘭家庭主婦」食譜中發現了這道菜餚。

《每日電訊報》報導,葛維斯.馬可漢著作的這本食譜的出版日期,比蘇格蘭詩人羅柏特.伯恩斯寫的「寫給肚包羊雜」一詩早了至少一百七十一年,這首詩讓這道菜餚家喻戶曉。

報導指出,布朗所找到最早提及蘇格蘭肚包羊雜的資料是一七四七年,文獻中指出,這道菜餚發源於蘇格蘭南方的英格蘭,之後這道食譜傳到蘇格蘭。

她說:「肚包羊雜原是一道英格蘭菜餚。葛維斯.馬可漢在一六一五年時就說,這在英格蘭是相當受歡迎的佳餚。」

「到了十八世紀中葉,另一位英格蘭烹飪作家漢娜.格拉喜有一道她稱為蘇格蘭肚包羊雜的食譜,也就是我們今天熟知的肚包羊雜。」

布朗的發現被拍成了電視紀錄片,上週在蘇格蘭的STV播映。她的這項主張勢必會惹惱許多蘇格蘭人,他們向來視英格蘭人為競爭對手,並且非常鍾愛肚包羊雜。

肚包羊雜這道料理是將羊心、羊肺與各式香料及燕麥一起剁碎,塞入羊的胃袋中再拿去烹煮,食用時通常會搭配一杯蘇格蘭威士忌。

(法新社╱翻譯:袁星塵)

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