Sat, Jun 08, 2013 - Page 12 News List

Restaurant review: Metro Bodhi Vegetarian (一沙一塵創意蔬食料理)

By Olivia Wycech  /  Contributing reporter

Metro Bodhi is one of the few places in Taipei that offers the Nigerian dish Ofeakwu.

Photo by Olivia Wycech

Fine vegetarian food is rare in Taipei, but there is artistry at work on the menu at Metro Bodhi. They have fashioned a plant-based menu that is homely yet elegant. The restaurant was started by a Buddhist organization in the belief that Buddhism does not have to be ascetic, but can be about living a full life and enjoying what it has to offer.

The restaurant is rather large with three floors for seating. It’s elegant but modestly decorated in a Buddhist fashion. Bronze statues and tea lights adorn the otherwise clean walls, creating a warm atmosphere amid plenty of literature and wines that are available for sale. The tableware is embellished with golden place settings and deep burgundy serviettes, which appear modest but still modern enough to give the restaurant a refined appeal. It resembles an upscale family restaurant.

The spicy tomato chickpea soup (NT$120) doesn’t pack much heat, but is well seasoned with herbs that give it an earthier taste than your classic tomato soup. There are three salads to choose from, my favorite being the fresh mozzarella, roasted garlic and red wine onion salad with Modena vinaigrette (NT$160 for a single serving, NT$320 for 2 to 3 people). Modena essentially means balsamic, so this salad has a dominant sweet Italian zing. If you prefer bitter flavors, try the chayote salad with grapefruit, mint olive oil dressing and aged white wine vinaigrette (NT$160 for a serving, NT$320 for 2 to 3 people). Chayote is similar to squash, but is more bland. Together, the components release a pungent yet refreshing burst of flavor on the palette.

From the appetizer menu, the goat cheese with avocado and banana dressing (NT$360) is highly recommended. It’s a small serving but worth every dollar. Diced avocado and creamy goat cheese sit atop a bed of sprouts, raisins and nuts, with a dollop of banana puree sweetened with honey, spiced with nutmeg and soured with white wine. The mushrooms with balsamic vinaigrette (NT$160) are nothing more than their description, but are sauteed until perfectly coated in a thick and not-too-sweet reduction.

Metro Bodhi Vegetarian (一沙一塵創意蔬食料理)

Address: 200, Daan Road Sec 1, Taipei City (台北市大安路一段200號)

Telephone: (02) 2703-2773

Open: Mondays to Fridays from 11:00am to 10:00pm, Saturdays and Sundays from 10:30am to 10:00pm

Average meal: NT$200 to NT$600

Details: Chinese and English menu, credit cards accepted, 10% service charge

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The five slices of bread (NT$200) are a unique spin on a restaurant regular, as a variety of thick grains and spreads are served in a range from sweet to savory. The potato wedges (NT$100) are simple but worth ordering for the dip. A seriously strong jalapeno relish-type dip accompanies the spuds, which also comes as a side to the cumin bread sandwich (NT$280), which is topped with a poached egg and generous amounts of mozzarella cheese. The cumin was quite mild and was balanced nicely by a topping of creamed mushrooms.

The restaurant offers three sizzling pans, and both the menu and myself recommend the Ofeakwu (NT$295). In fact, it was my favorite item of the day and I immediately went home and tried to replicate this native Nigerian dish. Wild rice, various beans, seasonal vegetables and a poached egg are covered in a simple tomato sauce that makes it somewhat of a stew. The flavors are so wholesome and robust that even hardcore carnivores won’t complain.

Metro Bodhi’s interpretation of pizza is more like a flatbread with toppings, which once again gives off more of an earthier taste. The lack of oil makes it drier than what you expect from pizza, but also means you can better taste the toppings like the explosive taste of pesto on the arugula pizza (NT$300). It’s perfect for those who enjoy the concept of pizza but usually pass on an oil-drenched deep-dish style.

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