Around bustling Yongkang Street, the value of human relationships takes precedence over making money at some small businesses, coffee shops, tea houses and restaurants; these places exude peculiar auras and ambiances, which reflect their owners’ idiosyncrasies.
James Kitchen is one such establishment. When the red lamp outside the door is lit (usually around dinner time) you’ll know it’s open. The restaurant closes when the day’s patrons, usually habitues, are sufficiently intoxicated after imbibing local brews and satiated after eating hearty Taiwanese fare.
My dining partner and I visited on a Monday night to avoid queuing. The interior is nostalgic in a cozy way, with old Taiwanese and Japanese ballads playing in the background. The simple decorations, wooden tables and stools create soothing vibe.
PHOTO: HO YI, TAIPEI TIMES
The kitchen specializes in preparing fresh fish with strange names. What the chefs have in stock for the day is written on a blackboard. Diners can choose the cooking method. Steaming is usually the best way to go with a fresh catch, but there are other options on the menu, such as the popular roasted threadfin perch (午魚一夜干, NT$225).
The assorted sashimi (綜合生魚片, NT$250) is an easy way to sample the day’s fresh harvest, while the fish skin salad (涼拌魚皮, NT$125) is made from premium brown croaker. Served with kumquat and ginger sauce, the gelatin-rich dish, accompanied by cucumber slices, is a light, summery option.
On the non-seafood section of the menu, beef with rock salt (岩鹽牛小排, NT$220) brings out the meat’s natural flavor with simple seasoning. Bamboo shoot with pig intestines (鮮筍燒大腸, NT$220) is a favorite among restaurant regulars, as the crisp shoots’ texture contrasts well with that of the tender intestines. A Hakka classic, pork with kumquat sauce (結醬白切肉, NT$175) tones down the oily meat with sweet-and-sour flavors.
For Taiwanese of a certain age, rice with lard (蔥香豬油飯, NT$20) is a nostalgic dish, and though appetite-enticing, it’s not favored by younger generations of diners. Braised pork rice with abalone (干貝肉燥飯, NT$35) is a fancier version of this classic.
As the night advanced, the bearded patron dimmed the lights. “It means we can smoke now,” he said. We were treated to bottles of sake and invited to join in the conversation.
This is probably what James Kitchen is all about: friendliness. And if you’re feeling in a solitary mood, there’s always a quiet corner.
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