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Restaurant: Persian Heaven

By Meredith Dodge
STAFF REPORTER
Friday, Aug 12, 2005, Page 15

There is meat in Heaven after all. PHOTO: MEREDITH DODGE, TAIPEI TIMES

Persian merchants settled in China as early as the Han dynasty and brought their goods, culture and food with them. The merchants never made it across the Strait, however, and to this day Taiwan lacks (except for the occasional Persian cat or rug) any sign of the ancient culture.

Iranian businessman Peter Amni is trying to change all that with his new restaurant, Persian Heaven.

Opened a little over two months ago near the intersection of Minsheng and Longjiang Roads, Persian Heaven is the first restaurant in Taiwan to offer exclusively Persian cuisine. While Amni is busy most of the time running his other business at the World Trade Center, his two sons and several cooks hired specially from Iran welcome new and curious diners to their restaurant every day.

Most customers opt for one of the many kebabs on offer, which include steak, minced beef, lamb and chicken, and come in mild, spicy and saffron flavors. The kebabs are joined by a pile of juicy barbecued veggies -- tomatoes, onions, bell peppers and mushrooms -- and a mound of either Persian rice or mashed potatoes. The creamy mashed potatoes are highly recommended as the perfect starchy complement to the flavorful barbecued items.

Diners interested in tasting authentic Persian food can choose from a variety of meat stews such as the ghormeh sabzi, chunks of beef or lamb and beans in a soup of spinach, parsley, coriander and other herbs. The stews tend to be heavy, so if you go for lunch on a hot day, it may be a good idea to opt for the kebab instead.

Any of the plates can become a set meal with beverage, soup and salad by adding NT$60. The plates themselves are satisfying enough, but if you're really that hungry, order another dish or a dessert -- the creamy, watery soup, made with mint, is a dud, and the salad, with an abundance of finely chopped bell peppers and onions, is more like a salsa.

Dessert, however, should not be omitted at Persian Heaven. The puddings are like a chewier, stickier version of French custard. The baked pudding and rice pudding are themselves worth a visit to the restaurant.

The decor represents Persian culture in the same way Chinese restaurants in the West represent Chinese culture. While the ornately patterned tablecloths, replicas of ancient Persian busts and Iran tourism posters may be a little over-obvious, they're not tacky, and the Farsi music playing in the background really livens up the place. If you're even mildly interested in Middle Eastern food and culture, don't miss Persian Heaven.
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