Stepping into Mary's Hamburger is like taking a trip to an American truck stop diner that's been emptied of its menacing clientele. Most of the classic decor elements unique to diners are present and the menu contains all the standard delicacies.
As its name suggests, this is primarily a hamburger joint and 23 years of business have allowed the restaurant to perfect its burger-frying skills. Choose from the regular or the jumbo-size burgers, the latter being about as big as a quarter pounder, and add cheese or bacon.
PHOTO: MAX WOODWORTH, TAIPEI TIMES
The prices are similar to those at McDonald's, but there is simply no comparison between the two establishments' burgers. Mary's uses superior grade beef patties, fried only when ordered, so that the flavor is intact and the burger comes piping hot on a rich, flavorful bun topped with fresh lettuce and onions. None of the burger chains even come close.
But there is more on the menu than just burgers. There is a limited breakfast selection with eggs, pancakes and fried potatoes and for lunch and dinner people can choose from fried chicken, salads, sandwiches, spaghetti and fried rice. Spaghetti is the most expensive item on the menu and it's only NT$110, which should tell you that a meal at Mary's won't break the bank. A BLT, for example, is only NT$40 and a side order of delicious, crispy fries comes in at NT$30. The restaurant doesn't even try to gouge diners with drinks prices -- a soft drink is NT$20.
Along with the food, one of the great things about eating at Mary's is the genuine diner atmosphere, complete with the loud sizzling coming off the griddle, the back-lit menu on the wall above the counter, the formica tables and especially the American-style cutlery and serving utensils.
Because it's a single outlet, mom-and-pop store, none of these items seems in the least contrived or intended to add ambience. It's just the real thing.
Mary's was started in 1979 using burger-making skills taught by American G.I.'s and aimed at the large foreign community centered around Tienmu.
The G.I.'s are long gone, but there is plenty of business from students at the Taipei American School and the Japanese School next door, the neighborhood's many expatriates, as well as from just about every other demographic, proving once again the mass appeal of a good burger.
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