Thu, Jun 29, 2023 page5

• Senegalese go crazy for their precious maad fruit

  • AFP, DAKAR
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  Outside a bustling fruit market in Senegal’s Dakar region, three trucks blocked the road while a dozen men sweated to unload a precious cargo.

  Working in intense heat and racing against the clock, they were shifting 60 tonnes of maad — a delicate tropical fruit that is massively popular in the West African state.

  A yellow fruit with a pulp that has a distinctive sweet and sour flavor and is rich in vitamins and fiber, maad comes from a vine called Saba senegalensis, which grows wild and is common across the region.

  

  A woman walks past a vendor selling maad, from the Saba senegalensis vine that is common to the Sahel, in Dakar on June 13.

  Photo: AFP

  The fruit’s season is relatively short, running from May to August, which prompts a rush of sellers at street corners, hawking the delicacy with salt, sugar or chilli, blended into juice or turned into jam.

  Maad has different names across West Africa, where it is eaten from the Ivory Coast to Mali and Guinea — but it is most popular in Senegal.

  Countless jobs depend on the fruit, from harvesting and distribution to selling and processing.

  

  A man prepares compote made of maad to sell in Dakar on June 13.

  Photo: AFP

  At the Sandika market in Pikine, workers labored to empty the trucks that had just arrived, sorting the maad according to ripeness.

  “The unloading will be finished by the end of the day,” said Dame Sarr, a 28-year-old wholesaler, who with his uncle had invested 6 million CFA francs (US$10.020) in the consignment.

  They expected to clear the equivalent of at least US$1,000 in profit — if the fruit was sold fast.

  “If I don’t shift the goods, I will have to cut the price tomorrow, because with every passing day maad loses its quality,” he said, sitting under a parasol.

  The good news was that several customers were already hovering around.

  Sarr had separated out the finest fruit to sell for 4,200 CFA francs for a bucket of 40 pieces. The others were on sale for half that price. A 20kg box of maad cost between 20,000 CFA francs and 25,000 CFA francs.

  “Maad is a very risky investment. It can’t stand sunlight or rain, and transporting it is difficult,” market representative and salesman Djiby Sandika said.

  The fruit “best suits small-scale retailers, who make large profits,” Sarr said.

  In Senegal most maad grows in the southern Casamance region on vines that wrap themselves around trees in thickly forested areas.

  Picking the fruit is done by hand and involves using long sticks — a task that involves the added risk of snakes.

  The Economy, Territory, Development and Service (ETDS) non-governmental organization said that nearly 1,500 tonnes of maad are harvested annually in the Ziguinchor, Kedougou and Kolda areas.

  Mariama Dieme, who heads a project to market maad production in Casamance, said that with better access, output could be trebled.

  The fruit is already under threat from “over-exploitation,” from fires used to burn stubble from fields and from damage caused by forest hunters, Dieme said.

  The ETDS is fostering a program for small-scale woman-led producers to make maad jam, juice or syrup, and even export some of their production.

  Maad jam sold in France via sellers on Instagram costs 25 euros (US$27.38) for a 300g jar, said Fatou Binetou Adour, a Senegalese who lives in Paris.
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