Every year in Japan people are hospitalized after eating pufferfish; sometimes the result is fatal. However, despite apparent dangers, strict rules on serving the toxic delicacy in Tokyo are to be relaxed.
Aficionados say the tingle that the meat of the pufferfish leaves on your lips — caused by the potent neurotoxin it contains — is part of the appeal. They are undeterred by the fact that the numbness tetrodotoxin creates can progress to paralysis and breathing problems, or that, according to the US Food and Drug Administration, consumption can prove fatal within four to six hours and “the victim, although completely paralyzed, may be conscious and in some cases completely lucid until shortly before death.”
Diners at Shigekazu Suzuki’s restaurant, however, can be sure they are in no danger when they select their pufferfish — an ugly and, to the untutored eye, rather unappetizing looking creature — from a tank near the kitchen.
Photo: AFP
Suzuki is one of an exclusive coterie of Tokyo chefs who have undergone special training and licensing that allows them to serve the potentially fatal fish, known as fugu in Japan.
“It’s not easy for non-licensed people to clean fugu,” Suzuki said at his branch of the Torafugu-tei chain in up-market Ginza, as he stripped the toxic internal organs from the freshly killed fish with his razor-sharp knife.
“I have not eaten these bits because I’m scared,” he said, gripping the light yellow ovary — one of the most poisonous parts of the fish — and throwing it into a locked metal pot.
According to Suzuki, it takes about five years to pass the fugu license exam, which includes paper and practical tests on how to distinguish poisonous parts from others.
Stringent regulations are often credited with the low level of fatalities, but reports of fishermen dying after eating their own inexpertly prepared catch continue to surface.
And thrill-seeking diners sometimes ask to be served the banned internal organs. Occasionally, a chef will oblige.
In December last year, the Tokyo government revoked the license for a chef at a Michelin two-star restaurant after he had served the fish’s liver to a diner who asked for it. She recovered after a few days in hospital.
“Some people really want to try the dangerous parts because they think it might be really good,” said Mahiro Shin, a 33-year-old customer at Torafugu-tei.
“And sometimes some people get sick, but most people like us don’t take such risks,” he said.
A set meal of fugu hot pot at Torafugu-tei costs roughly ￥5,000 (US$63), but prices in some of the more exclusive restaurants in notoriously pricey Tokyo can rise to tens of thousands of yen.
However, the premium the seasonal delicacy attracts is easily justified, diner Yohei Watanabe said.
“It is a bit more expensive than regular fish, but it’s definitely worth it,” he said.
According to Japan’s health and welfare ministry, 17 people fell ill after eating fugu last year. One of them died.
Under the present system, restaurants in the Tokyo Metropolitan area, home to some 13 million people, can only serve fugu if they have a specially trained chef working on site.
However, in a move that surprised some observers, the authorities in the capital earlier this year announced plans to relax the rules.
From October eateries will be allowed to buy in ready prepared fugu — packaged or frozen, for example — provided it came from a licensed chef.
Unprepared fugu will continue to be banned from menus at restaurants without licensed personnel.
The rule change is more of a technicality to catch up with current practice, the authorities argue.
Tokyo consumers have long bought fugu meat from other areas of the country via the Internet, most notably from the southern Kyushu region known for its food.
“We have concluded that the revision of the regulation won’t lead to any chances of triggering fugu poisoning,” a Tokyo Metropolitan government official said.
Suzuki said he was not worried about competition when the new rules come into force.
“Due to the deregulation, more restaurants can serve fugu so that more customers can enjoy it and then will be properly aware of the culture of eating fugu,” the 44-year-old said.
“We licensed chefs will continue taking care of it properly,” he added.
A humanoid robot that won a half-marathon race for robots in Beijing on Sunday ran faster than the human world record in a show of China’s technological leaps. The winner from Honor, a Chinese smartphone maker, completed the 21km race in 50 minutes and 26 seconds, said a WeChat post by the Beijing Economic-Technological Development Area, also known as Beijing E-Town, where the race began. That was faster than the human world record holder, Ugandan Jacob Kiplimo, who finished the same distance in about 57 minutes in March at the Lisbon road race. The performance by the robot marked a significant step forward
Four contenders are squaring up to succeed Antonio Guterres as secretary-general of the UN, which faces unprecedented global instability, wars and its own crushing budget crisis. Chile’s Michelle Bachelet, Argentina’s Rafael Grossi, Costa Rica’s Rebeca Grynspan and Senegal’s Macky Sall are each to face grillings by 193 member states and non-governmental organizations for three hours today and tomorrow. It is only the second time the UN has held a public question-and-answer, a format created in 2016 to boost transparency. Ultimately the five permanent members of the UN’s top body, the Security Council, hold the power, wielding vetoes over who leads the
South Korea’s air force yesterday apologized for a 2021 midair collision involving two fighter jets, a day after auditors said the pilots were taking selfies and filming during the flight and held them responsible for the accident. “We sincerely apologize to the public for the concern caused by the accident that occurred in 2021,” an air force spokesman told a news conference, adding that one of the pilots involved had been suspended from flying duties, received severe disciplinary action and has since left the military. The apology followed a report released on Wednesday by the South Korean Board of Audit and Inspection,
An earthquake registering a preliminary magnitude of 7.7 off northern Japan on Monday prompted a short-lived tsunami alert and the advisory of a higher risk of a possible mega-quake for coastal areas there. The Cabinet Office and the Japan Meteorological Agency said there was a 1% chance for a mega-quake, compared to a 0.1% chance during normal times, in the next week or so following the powerful quake near the Chishima and Japan trenches. Officials said the advisory was not a quake prediction but urged residents in 182 towns along the northeastern coasts to raise their preparedness while continuing their daily lives. Prime
RSS