Taiwan can often feel woefully behind on global trends, from fashion to food, and influences can sometimes feel like the last on the metaphorical bandwagon.
In the West, suddenly every burger is being smashed and honey has become “hot” and we’re all drinking orange wine.
But it took a good while for a smash burger in Taipei to come across my radar.
Photo: Hollie Younger, Taipei Times
For the uninitiated, a smash burger is, well, a normal burger patty but smashed flat.
Originally, I didn’t understand. Surely the best part of a burger is the thick patty with all the juiciness of the beef, the melt in the mouth texture, preferably medium rare... isn’t that the whole point? Why would anyone “smash” a perfectly good thing?
But you gotta try it. The last thing I would describe it as is “dry.”
Photo: Hollie Younger, Taipei Times
Pressed flat on the griddle into a 2cm-thick patty, a larger surface area gives a crispy, caramelized crust while a quick sear retains all the flavor and juices of the meat.
Comfort Burger Company is a labor of love by Canadian owner Timothy Wong, whose philosophy is “nothing fancy, just pure comfort food made with care.”
All the burgers are smashed to order, the sauces are made in-house and the carefully crafted menu is not open for modifications.
Photo: Hollie Younger, Taipei Times
These guys are all about local collaborations and sourcing the freshest new flavors in Taipei, from hot honey to instant-noodle burgers to wacky limited-edition cocktails.
The main reason for my visit was Taiwan’s first smashed chicken burger, a collaboration with Empress Hot Sauce’s new Smoke n’ Hot Honey.
I don’t usually opt for a chicken burger over beef, fish or even lamb — it can usually be on the drier side. But the smash really retains all those juices, and our hands come away delightfully messy.
Photo: Hollie Younger, Taipei Times
Locally-sourced honey mixes with a building chili heat to give Taiwan’s fresh take on the hot honey trend, lashings of it drizzled on our chicken burger.
Sort of akin to the more familiar maple syrup bacon, the honey pairs well with the chicken thigh’s natural sweetness as the heat ramps up with every bite. The usual burger accoutrements are joined by a ring of charcoal-grilled pineapple, but the spice and crispy sear keep it from becoming sickly.
The chicken burger is set to return to the menu as the Teriyaki Boyz (NT$290).
Photo: Hollie Younger, Taipei Times
Empress Hot Sauce also provides the perfect dip for the Hot Honey Fries (NT$130).
Next we try Wong’s personal recommendation, We The North (NT$280): Canadian maple syrup bacon, mushrooms, sauteed onions and an in-house secret mustard sauce. Again on the sweeter side as maple syrup and caramelized onions complement the caramelized crust on the beef patty.
But the star here is our side of Canadian Poutine (NT$180).
Photo: Hollie Younger, Taipei Times
Canada’s beloved loaded fries are topped with a peppery, umami gravy and melty cheese curds. Served in a small individual side portion, this doesn’t get overbearing and stays warm and gooey until the last bite. They really don’t scrimp here, we’re finding cheese pulls until we hit pan and the gravy pools around the very last of the fries.
Our personal recommendation would be the Wild Wild East (NT$270): American cheese, jalapenos, crispy onions, pickled red onions and a secret ranch sauce. Double onions and spicy add-ons had us sold. This one leans less sweet and caters more to our personal palate, but the combinations of flavors here are all exceptional. “No modifications” is written on the menu for perfectly good reason.
To wash it down, they offer two-for-one Taihu beer from 5pm to 7pm, and we wrap up with an Empress hot honey-spiked mango milkshake with that same addictive spicy-sweet combo: pockets of sticky heat cutting through the sweet mango.
Bang on trend and never short on creative twists, we’re curious to see what’s next.
But in a city home to many a burger joint, what makes this one stand out?
Wong said it best.
“Taipei’s got amazing food everywhere, but we just want to be that spot you keep coming back to — your comfort zone with good food, good people and good vibes.”
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