When visiting an indigenous community almost anywhere in Taiwan, it can be difficult to gain a sense of what traditional lifestyles were once like, as people live in homes similar to those in non-indigenous areas, drive cars and wear modern clothing. To offset the rapid disappearance of culture and develop tourism, more and more indigenous communities are establishing hunters’ schools, where traditions are passed on through teaching and hands-on activities.
HUNTERS’ SCHOOL ORIGINS
More than a decade ago, Paiwan writer and cultural worker Sakinu Ahronglong noticed that the young men returning to the Lalauran Community (拉勞蘭) in Taitung County’s Taimali Township (太麻里鄉), after living in urban areas, were often troubled. This community was home and familiar to them, but they had become disconnected from their cultural roots. Moreover, as they had not passed traditional coming-of-age rites, the elders did not consider them true members of the community.
photo: Cheryl Robbins
Sakinu’s strong foundation in the tribe’s traditional knowledge came from spending time with his father, a highly accomplished hunter. He decided to apply that knowledge to the founding of a hunters’ school to train young men in the Paiwan tradition.
From a series of conversations over several visits with him, in traditional Paiwan culture, “hunter” means so much more than a person who hunts. It refers to a person who can communicate with the land and nature. Not only hunting and survival skills are taught, but also concepts of harmonious coexistence with nature, ecology and ethical use of the land.
TRADITION IN ACTION
photo: Cheryl Robbins
In the past, young men trained together and were required to pass tests as they completed several levels of instruction, similar to the education system that requires passing several grades to graduate.
In the Paiwan culture, training culminates in the coming-of-age rites, signaling the ability of a man to take care of his family and defend his community. Young men spend several days in the mountains tracking and hunting animals, finding the best places to sleep without a sleeping bag or tent, obtaining water, moving about in the dark without a flashlight and starting a fire without matches or a lighter.
One mission of this hunters’ school is to revive this training and its associated rites. At the end of July every year, the Paiwan residents of the Lalauran Community hold their millet ceremony to celebrate the harvest of this once staple grain. The men gather in the courtyard of the chieftain’s home before heading into the mountains to participate in survival skills tests.
photo: Cheryl Robbins
Sakinu calls each one by name and conducts a traditional blessing rite. The older boys then carry off the younger ones, making sure they are not left behind.
As it was modeled on the traditional warrior training system, in the beginning this school was open only to men. However, the young girls of the community began to express their interest in cultural and survival training. Sakinu says that, to his surprise, they complained much less than the young men while learning to survive in the mountains.
It wasn’t long before people from other indigenous tribes and even non-indigenous people started to approach Sakinu, also wanting to learn. Sakinu says that as long as people have a sincere interest in learning about Paiwan culture and traditions, he is willing to teach them. Subsequently, other indigenous communities came to observe in an effort to establish similar programs for their youth. During this process, they realized that some of the concepts could be modified for tourism.
Today, tourists from all over Taiwan and the world are being schooled in survival skills, ethnobotany, archery and unity at an increasing number of hunters’ schools around the nation.
One of the most well-known is Cidal (吉籟獵人學校) in Hualien County’s Shoufeng Township (壽豐鄉). It is in the indigenous Amis community of Ciwidian, also known by its Chinese name of Shuilian (水璉部落).
TAILORED CULTURAL EXPERIENCES
A beginners’ half-day course starts with a welcome by the Cidal team, most of whom are Ciwidian residents, including a large proportion of active hunters. They explain the history of their community and the hunters’ school. This is followed by an archery lesson.
Walking up a wooden stairway, a guide explains some of the plants growing alongside and their traditional uses. In a covered outdoor area with simple wooden benches, there are demonstrations on how to make a trap to catch small birds from materials found in nature, such as twigs and leaves. Once food is caught, the next step is to cook it. A fire is started using natural materials without a lighter or matches.
As hunters may stay in the mountains for days, a water container and rope are also useful items and can be made from plant materials. This course does not just involve watching demonstrations. There is also ample opportunity to practice the taught skills under the watchful eye of hunters. A guided tour of the community and a lunch of indigenous cuisine are also available.
If you have the luxury of time and can stay overnight, this school can arrange for a hunter to lead you into the mountains to track animals, build a temporary shelter and put the survival skills you have learned to use.
IF YOU GO
The entrance to the Lalauran Community (拉勞蘭) is located near the 407-kilometer marker along Provincial Highway 9, about 30 minutes’ drive south of Taitung City. The Ding Dong Bus Company (鼎東客運)’s mountain line routes run between its main station in Taitung City and Taimali. Or, take a train to the Taimali station and transfer to a taxi. For bus fare and schedule information call (089) 333-023 or go online to ett333023.com.tw (Chinese only). For Taiwan Railways Administration timetable in English, visit: 163.29.3.92/twrail/EN_QuickSearch.aspx
Lalauran’s hunters’ school does not have regular operating hours and is not generally open to tourists. However, if you would like to visit and learn more about this school, for English contact Nini (泥泥) at 0931-037-337 or Yaya (鴨鴨) at 0910-322-007
Cidal Hunters’ School is situated near the 24-kilometer marker along Provincial Highway 11, about 30 minutes’ drive south of Hualien City. The Hualien Bus Company (花蓮客運) offers service between the Hualien train station and Shuilian. For fare and schedule information call (03) 8333-468 or www.hualienbus.com.tw (Chinese only)
Cidal Hunters’ School is open to tourists but all activities must be reserved in advance. For information and reservations in English, call Peng Ling (彭玲) at 0987-860-372. While its Facebook Fans Page (zh-tw.facebook.com/CidalHunterSchool/) is only in Chinese it does include a number of videos of its activities as reference
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