There’s a growing crop of Japanese food lovers in Taipei gravitating towards more leisurely establishments and open-air sake bars. But devoted connoisseurs have been holding fort at Mitsui Cuisine M (三井 Cuisine M), the newest branch of the Mitsui Food and Beverage Enterprise Group located in the heart of posh Xinyi District (信義).
Hidden in a discreet back corner off Songzhi Road in the Citibank building opposite Eslite bookstore, Mitsui Cuisine M combines aesthetics with the freshest quality seafood. The decor includes floor-to-ceiling windows, high walls and an impressive wine display. Chandeliers made out of dangling forks which resemble aquatic life add a quirky touch to the otherwise classy ambiance.
While lunch sets are either NT$1,200 or NT$1,500, the dinner sets are pricier at NT$1,800, NT$2,800 and NT$3,800. Waiters, or “advisers” as they are called, are more than happy to introduce the dishes on the set menu which may vary according to the ingredients in stock on the day.
Photo: Dana Ter
The NT$2,800 set consisting of a nine-course meal is a fine choice. Regardless of which set you choose, though, presentation is paramount and each dish is the making of a meticulous artist. Taste-wise, garnishing and sauces are used to enhance the natural freshness of the food rather than overpower it.
There’s a saying that an Italian restaurant can be judged by the quality of its bread. The same can be said for oysters in a seafood restaurant. The bigger the oyster the greater the risk of it tasting too rubbery. Mitsui’s oysters, although big, are silky and delicate. Served on a shell-shaped plate filled with small chunks of ice, it gives the impression of being fresh from the ocean.
Alternating between raw and cooked, cold and hot, the rest of the set follows the “fresh from the ocean” theme. Contrasting flavors are a key motif in the food at Mitsui Cuisine M. Served in an earthenware plate, the second course, which is steamed fish soaked in warm broth is lightly drizzled with shreds of lobster meat and scallion bits. The natural sweetness of the lobster and tinge of onion flavor from the scallions provides a nice contrast to the smooth, velvety textures of the fish.
Photo: Dana Ter
The black abalone, a rarity in itself, is cut into slices that are fine and succulent, pairing well with the chilled sliced apple, lettuce and asparagus. By contrast, the seared scallop fresh from the pan is warm, firm and cod-like. The dollop of green tartar-like sauce adds a sultry feel.
Next up is the dish that the Mitsui group is most famous for — its assorted sashimi platter.
The presentation takes into consideration colors, contours, background and foreground, while the sashimi, moist and glistening, beckons one’s taste buds. Biting into it, the taste is light and heavenly — a perfect combination given the sweltering heat outside, even at night.
Photo: Dana Ter
After several courses of raw delicacies, it’s fitting that the remainder of the dishes are cooked. Encased in an earthenware bowl decorated with inedible leaves, the crab looks like it’s attempting to crawl out of its habitat. The soft delicateness of the crab meat is best savored with the ginkgo nuts sprinkled in the bowl.
The last two courses before dessert — grilled red throat emperor and sliced beef — should fill you up. The grilled fish which is more of an orange hue, is crispy on the outside and juicy on the inside. Meanwhile, the medium-rare beef served in light gravy sauce adorned with lady’s finger is just the right amount of softness and chewiness.
The interplay between sight, taste and touch makes the dining experience at Mitsui Cuisine M uniquely multi-sensory. Do not be dissuaded by the prices — being true value for your money, the food will have you believing that you are dining by the Pacific Ocean rather than in the midst of malls, night clubs and skyscrapers.
Photo: Dana Ter
Photo: Dana Ter
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