For the last 10 years, Dan Ryan's has been doing the same thing. It has changed little either in decor or in menu. The reason for this is that having found a good recipe, it has had little reason to tinker with a good thing. It is not surprising that it has a strong base of regular customers, both foreign and local, who appreciate the fact that it has never tried to compromise on its American style.
Dark wood, sporting memorabilia and souvenirs of a 1940s Chicago, this is a little piece of the American heartland in Taiwan. Its Superbowl day has become a tradition among many expatriates, a tradition that the restaurant maintains although it has long ceased to be profitable. "It is about tradition," said Nia Chen (陳佩儀), the restaurant manager.
The restaurant announces proudly on its menu that it serves American portions, a warning that should not be taken lightly. Attentive wait staff warn the unwary, for at Dan Ryan's even a salad can easily constitute a main course. But the great standards hark back to the days of the railway tycoons when appetites were big and there was always time for another beer. Start off with the clam chowder, a solid soup with nice big clams inside. Move on another house special, the slab of ribs. Ribs are ribs, and there isn't a whole lot of variation wherever you go. Dan Ryan's doesn't try anything fancy, but top-quality local pork and the right touch with the grill, make this a sure hit with dedicated carnivores. For something a little lighter, go for the cioppino, an Italianesque seafood and rice combo that is not too easy to place geographically but with its hints of cajune spiciness and Mediterranean seasonings, sizeable chunks of crab, fish, and whole prawns and mussels, this is a veritable feast that could easily be shared between two light eaters. Dan Ryan's also provides some of the best burgers and hot sandwiches in town. The Ruben sandwich is especially recommended, but is definitely not for the calorie conscious.
PHOTO COURTESY OF DAN RYAN'S
Indeed, Dan Ryan's keeps faith with an earlier age most obviously in its desserts, which make no concessions. It's brownie, imported directly from New York, is about as dense and chocolaty as you could want, and topped with a giant scoop of Hagan Daaz macadamia nut ice cream, you are looking at a temptation that is likely to break the will of the most ardent weight watcher.
While Dan Ryan's is firmly placed in the upper bracket of eateries, it continues to offer incredible value for money, and for some reason that is an important part of the restaurant's charm, it manages to maintain a high level of professionalism while avoiding fussy pretentiousness.
The bar is simple and competent, avoiding fancy cocktails for a good control of the basics. And in any case, beer is the drink of choice for most customers, according to Chen.
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