Sun, Nov 06, 2016 - Page 9 News List

A pilgrimage to Machu Picchu
去秘魯馬丘比丘朝聖 追隨攝影師祖父的印跡

A view of the Inca citadel of Machu Picchu in Cusco, Peru taken on Dec. 2, 2014. This photo is unrelated to the author of the original New York Times article.
位於秘魯庫斯科的馬丘比丘印加城堡,攝於二○一四年十二月二日。

Photo: Reuters
照片:路透社

My grandfather was an architect. He was also an amateur photographer and I remember, growing up, my grandmother showed me all these slides of his travels, including to Machu Picchu, on light boxes.

My going to Machu Picchu felt like a pilgrimage — in some ways connected to my family, but also just for me. The trek gives you a sense of how big the Inca Empire was — it’s incredible to see a piece of this huge civilization. They managed to grow crops in different altitudes and different climates and build these villages. All the Inca trails and paths around the Andes were built to get to Machu Picchu.

For seven days we didn’t see a shower, a motorbike, a plane, a cellphone. We just saw nature. About halfway through the trek, there were some thermal baths coming from the mountains. Yet the rivers are really cold, like snow. You have to get all the right clothes for many different climates — it’s freezing at night, and incredibly hot in the day. You are more with yourself. It was hard to breathe at this altitude. Your brain is not thinking properly; it operates differently.

This article is an edited version of a piece that originally appeared in the New York Times Magazine

(NEW YORK TIMES / Jaime Lowe)

我的祖父是一名建築師,也是一名業餘攝影師。記得小時候祖母時常用燈箱給我看他在各地旅行的幻燈片,其中就包括馬丘比丘。

我去馬丘比丘,就像去朝聖,這在某種程度上與我的家庭有關,但也是為我個人的。這種旅程會讓你感受到曾經的印加帝國有多麼的大——看到這麼大規模的文明,讓人感覺難以置信。他們設法在不同的海拔和不同的氣候下種植作物,建造這些村莊。安第斯山周圍修建的大大小小的道路都是為了通向馬丘比丘。

在七天的時間裡,我們沒有看到一個淋浴間、一輛摩托車、一架飛機,也沒見到一隻手機。我們看到的只有大自然。健行到一半的時候,出現了一些山間的溫泉浴場。但河裡真的很涼,就像雪一樣。你必須帶上適合各種氣候的衣服——夜間極冷,白天卻不可思議地熱。你更貼近自己的內心。在這麼高海拔的地方,呼吸起來十分費力。你的腦子無法正常思考;它在用另一種方式運轉。

本文為編輯後的版本,原文已於紐約時報雜誌刊登

(紐約時報/傑米·洛 翻譯:常青)

TODAY’S WORDS
今日單字

1. pilgrimage n.

朝聖

(chao2 sheng4)

2. trek n.

健行

(jian4 xing2)

3. altitude n.

海拔

(hai3 ba2)

4. climate n.

氣候

(qi4 hou4)


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