Mon, Jun 10, 2019 - Page 8 News List

The surprising origin of Macau’s Portuguese egg tarts

How a Briton’s experiment led Asia to fall for Macau’s Portuguese egg tarts

AFP, HONG KONG

Last month, chef Dennis del Rosario turns a tray of egg tarts at Lord Stow’s bakery in Macau.

Photo: AFP

With their flaky pastry casing, creamy custard filling and brulee topping, Macau’s Portuguese egg tarts are as much a part of the Chinese enclave’s fabric as its casinos — but their origin is surprisingly British.

Across the city it is not uncommon to see long lines of tourists patiently queuing for the sweet treats, a sight that might not seem all that surprising given the former Portuguese colony’s most famous dessert is based on Lisbon’s equally renowned pastel de nata.

But the current craze for Portuguese-style egg tarts — which has spread across China and parts of Asia in recent years — owes much of its success to a Briton who blundered into the business.

The tale began three decades ago when Essex-born industrial pharmacist Andrew Stow opened Lord Stow’s bakery at the southern harborside village of Coloane.

“In 1989, recognizing there were no Western street-side bakeries... he decided to do something for the local Portuguese community, which was to create a pastel de nata for them,” said Eileen Stow, Andrew’s sister, who now manages the business.

With no original recipe for pastel de nata to use, Andrew experimented with a heavier British custard filling, based on a family recipe, and Portuguese pastry techniques.

The creation initially raised a few eyebrows among Andrew’s Portuguese friends in Macau, but the local Chinese community became hooked.

Courtesy of the British, Cantonese cuisine already had a version of an egg tart, made with shortcrust pastry and a more jelly-like filling.

“To differentiate it from what they recognized in dim sum, a dan tat [egg tart in Cantonese,] they call it a po tat,” meaning Portuguese egg tart, Eileen said.

The creamier, flakier, richer versions were a roaring success.

“That’s how it grew before the days of ‘likes’ online. It’s just word of mouth,” added Eileen, who took over the business after her brother’s death in 2006.

The business now churns out 21,000 handmade egg tarts per day from three bakeries in Macau, and it also boasts two franchises in Japan and Manila.

A string of rivals have cropped up in the last three decades in Hong Kong, Taiwan and Singapore.

One of the best-regarded Macau competitors was set up by Andrew’s ex-wife Margaret Wong.

She sold her recipe to KFC, which now offers Portuguese egg tarts at outlets across China, a move that has introduced Macau’s Portuguese-British hybrid to hundreds of millions more hungry mouths.

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