Israelis and militant Palestinians, million-dollar Russian gas deals and Chechen rebels, a US military base and a television network airing statements urging the killing of Americans -- all exist side-by-side on one tiny Gulf peninsula.
Qatar's accommodation of all who come has irked neighbors and allies.
But in less than 10 years, it has freed itself from the shadow of its powerful neighbor, Saudi Arabia, to promote its own, independent foreign policy. Along the way, it has launched a television station that redefined news coverage for Arabs and publicly declared the opening of an Israeli trade office in its capital -- breaking the region's taboo on contacts with the Jewish state.
Qatar hasn't hidden its political moves, which a Doha-based Gulf diplomat said privately annoys more conservative governments in the region that are "used to keeping their populace in the dark."
Qatar prides itself on being on good terms with everyone: It showed sympathy for the Palestinians by taking in members of the militant group Hamas who were expelled from Jordan.
Tight security has prevented friction from the opposing groups.
But the car bomb assassination last Friday of former Chechen president Zelimkhan Yandarbiyev in Doha -- an unprecedented attack in a politically stable country -- is likely to raise questions.
Yandarbiyev was on a UN list of people with alleged links to al-Qaeda, which is blamed for the Sept. 11 terrorist attacks. Washington also put him on a list of international terrorists who are subject to financial sanctions.
Russia had been seeking the Chechen's extradition from Qatar, where he lived nearly four years, accusing him of ties to kidnappers and terrorists. But the Gulf state would not expel Yandarbiyev despite the country's close cooperation with Russia in the gas industry and other areas.
Qatar cites Arab hospitality and traditions of offering sanctuary for its willingness to host Yandarbiyev, and others, such as Abbasi Madani, one of Algeria's top two Islamic leaders. But there is a practical purpose as well: defusing anger for allowing US military bases in the country.
The US set up a military command center in Qatar before launching last year's war in Iraq and continues to maintain a military presence there.
Qatar also is home to al Jazeera, a 24-hour news channel that the US government assails for what it says are broadcasts that incite violence against Americans. The Qatari government says al Jazeera is independent and follows its own editorial policy.
Despite diplomatic efforts, Washington has been unable to persuade Doha to rein in the channel, seen by many Arabs as an outlet to their anger against American policies in Iraq and the Palestinian territories.
Qatar, once a community that survived on fishing and boat-building, now boasts a state-of-the-art infrastructure and regularly hosts international events.
In December 2001 -- a time of unparalleled jitters over terror attacks in the wake of the Sept. 11 strikes on New York and Washington -- Qatar played host to the WTO summit. Security was so tight and visa regulations so rigid that the usual WTO protesters were few. The summit went off without a security hitch, though Qatari methods were criticized.
Sheik Hamad bin Khalifa Al Thani remains the final authority on all matters, but the ruling family has granted some more democratic methods for its people, holding municipal elections in which women could vote and run for office, working on a constitution and promising an elected parliament.
Government policies are not discussed in public, but life generally is comfortable and acceptance of Sheik Hamad's decisions stems more from respect and the assumption he is looking out for their interests than fear. Qataris insist that, should they choose, they are free to take their leaders to task.
"There is no dissent here because our government gives us the opportunity to voice our opinions. I don't need foreign governments to tell me if my country is doing the right thing. I can decide for myself and approach officials here with my concerns," said Hamad Ali, a Qatari civil servant.
Qatar's choices, including allying itself with the US, aren't hidden, the Gulf diplomat said, speaking on condition of anonymity. The country wants to open its society somewhat to avoid having Western-style democracy imposed on it, he added.
It might stumble along the way, the diplomat said, but it appears intent on going forward.
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