In Hungary’s capital, a city best known for its goulash, a pizzeria is inviting diners to travel back two millennia to a time before tomatoes, mozzarella or even the word “pizza” were known in Europe.
At Neverland Pizzeria in central Budapest, founder Josep Zara and his team have created a limited-edition pie using only ingredients that would have been available in ancient Rome, long before what we know today as pizza ever existed.
“Curiosity drove us to ask what pizza might have been like long ago,” Zara said. “We went all the way back to the Roman Empire and wondered whether they even ate pizza at the time.”
Photo: AP
Strictly speaking, they did not. Tomatoes arrived in Europe centuries later from the Americas, and mozzarella was as yet unknown. Some histories have it that the discovery of mozzarella led directly to the invention of pizza in Naples in the 1700s.
However, Romans did eat oven-baked flatbreads topped with herbs, cheeses and sauces, the direct ancestors of modern pizza, which were often sold in ancient Roman snack bars called thermopolia.
In 2023, archeologists uncovered a fresco in Pompeii depicting a focaccia-like flatbread topped with what appeared to be pomegranate seeds, dates, spices and a pesto-like spread. The image made headlines around the world, and sparked Zara’s imagination.
“That made me very curious about what kind of flavor this food might have had,” he said. “That’s where we got the idea to create a pizza that people might have eaten in the Roman Empire, using only ingredients that were in wide use at the time.”
Zara began researching Roman culinary history, consulting a historian in Germany as well as the ancient cookbook De re coquinaria thought to have been authored around the fifth century. Following his research, he compiled a list of historically documented ingredients to present to the pizzeria’s head chef.
“We sat down to imagine what we might be able to make using these ingredients, and without using things like tomatoes and mozzarella,” Zara said. “We had to exclude all ingredients that originated from America.”
Head chef Laszlo Bardossy said the constraints forced the team into months of experimentation, and a few false starts.
“We had to discard a couple ideas,” Bardossy said. “The fact that there wasn’t infrastructure like a water system at the time of the Romans made things difficult for us, since more than 80 percent of pizza dough is water. We had to come up with something that would have worked before running water.”
The solution: helping the dough rise using fermented spinach juice. Ancient grains such as einkorn and spelt, widely cultivated in Roman times, formed the base, and the dough ended up slightly more dense than that of most modern pizzas.
The finished pie is topped with ingredients associated with Roman aristocratic cuisine, including epityrum (an olive paste), garum (a fermented fish sauce ubiquitous in Roman cooking), confit duck leg, toasted pine nuts, ricotta and a grape reduction.
“Our creation can be called a modern pizza from the perspective that we tried to make it comprehensible for everyone,” Bardossy said.
“Although we wouldn’t use all its ingredients for everyday dishes. There is a narrow niche that thinks this is delicious and is curious about it, while most people want more conventional pizza, so it’s not for everyday eating,” he said. “It’s something special.”
For Zara, the project reflects Neverland Pizzeria’s broader philosophy.
“We’ve always liked coming up with new and interesting things, but tradition is also very important for us, and we thought that these two things together suit us,” he said.
However, there is a modern boundary the restaurant would not cross, he added.
“We do a lot of experimentation with our pizzas. But of course, we definitely do not use pineapple,” he said.
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