A wave of foreign imitations and alternative styles has prompted Oman to take tough action to preserve its unique national dress, threatening thousands of dollars in fines for men who wear the wrong sort of dishdasha.
Dishdashas, the long, elegant robes that are a hallmark of the Persian Gulf sultanate, have fallen prey to rising hemlines and elaborate embroidery, with some wearers also going for multicolored designs.
The Omani Ministry of Commerce, Industry and Investment Promotion said that the dishdasha’s design is based on “certain criteria,” stipulating that it should be made mostly out of cotton with embroidery only on the collar, front slit and cuffs.
Photo: AFP
“The fabric must be a single color,” a ministry official said, adding that white or neutral colors are preferred.
A person or factory found to contravene the dress code would be fined 1,000 rials (US$2,598), or double that for a second offense.
While similar to the ankle-length robes worn by men in neighboring countries, Oman’s dishdasha stands out with its subtle embroidery around the neckline (mahar) which continues down a front central slit (shaq) over the chest.
In other Persian Gulf countries, including Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates, the long-sleeved robe is usually plain white and worn with either a white keffiyeh headdress or a red-and-white checkered one.
Omani men usually wear an embroidered brimless round cap (kumma) or a turban-style headdress, known as a massar, to complete their look.
The striking ensemble is a distinctive part of life in Oman, an ancient land known for its rich heritage, scenic coasts and stunning mountains.
In a conservative country where criticism of the authorities is rare, some in the capital, Muscat, said that while the announcement could be considered an infringement on personal freedoms, they understood the need to preserve national identity.
“The decision may be good to set certain standards, but conflicts with personal freedoms,” said Ouahib al-Jadidi, a 36-year-old entrepreneur. “There are men who want to wear dishdashas that match their own tastes, but this ruling will prevent them from doing so.”
Nabegh al-Qarni, who owns a store that sells dishdashas and accessories for men, said that modifications to the traditional dress had become noticeable.
“Among the most notable changes is the shortening of the robe, or larger patterns and embroidery,” the 35-year-old said.
“We have also seen different colors of dishdasha, instead of the traditional white, brown or black,” he said, adding that Omani society, especially the older generation, is averse to this kind of change.
The effort to preserve Omani culture in the face of evolving tastes comes as the country grapples with social and economic change, introducing measures to attract foreign investment as it attempts to reduce its reliance on oil.
These have included developing its tourism industry, as well as issuing long-term residence permits for foreigners — who make up 40 percent of the country’s population of 4.5 million people — while reserving certain jobs for citizens.
Omani economist Khalfan al-Touqi said that the dishdasha was not only symbolic of the people and their heritage, but also had “great economic importance.”
“Many shopkeepers have been bringing in dishdashas from abroad, from China and India, which often alter the robe,” he said, adding that the new measures aim to encourage retailers to buy from local factories.
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