You can catch a ball or an insect and hold it in your hands. How do you catch a wave?
Waves are strong and often pull people under the water when they are swimming. But surfers are people who have found a way to stay in control when a wave comes their way.
In fact, surfers can spend their whole lives trying to catch the perfect wave. They go to the places with the biggest waves and wait and plan and hope to be in the water and ready to go when that perfect wave comes along.
They have to make sure their movements and the movements of their surfboards match exactly. And they often have to wait in the water for hours to catch even one wave.
But being able to ride on top of these huge powerful things is very exciting.
Surfers will travel all over the world for just a few minutes of riding along on top of the water.
(Lynn Steger, Staff Writer)
你可以抓住一顆球或一隻昆蟲，並且握在手裡，但你要如何抓住海浪呢？
海浪威力強大，常能把泳客拖下海，但是衝浪者卻能在海浪迎面而來時設法穩住陣腳。
事實上，衝浪者會終其一生尋找完美的海浪，他們造訪出現最大海浪之處，等待著，盤算著，期望置身海中，在完美海浪出現時能適時出發。
他們得確定自己的動作與衝浪板的動作配合的剛剛好，而且通常得在水裡待上好幾個小時才能等到一波海浪。
不過，能站在這些驚濤駭浪的頂端是非常令人熱血沸騰的事。
衝浪者會為了登上浪頭幾分鐘而旅行至世界各地。（翻譯︰鄭湘儀）
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