The Suhua Highway (蘇花公路) is one of Taiwan’s most famous — and most infamous — roads. Winding its way along marble cliffs high above the Pacific Ocean, the scenery is unparalleled. However, this narrow road is full of blind turns and prone to rockslides, so for years, many avoided this section altogether, where the only thing stopping you from plummeting into the Pacific below is a thin metal guardrail.
The newest iteration of the road is the “Improved Suhua Highway” (蘇花改), which opened in 2020 and now carries the Highway No. 9 designation. Through a more inland route and a collection of long tunnels, it will be less affected by landslides and provide a safer experience for drivers. Scooters and bicycles are not allowed on this road, but are instead confined to the pre-2020 “old” Suhua Highway, now designated as Highway No. 9D (9丁). Since the heavy traffic has moved to the new road, it is now a much safer and more enjoyable route, especially on foot.
THE OLD, THE OLDER AND THE OLDEST
Photo: Tyler Cottenie
From the “old” Suhua Highway’s official start in Suao Township (蘇澳), it climbs up and follows the coastline, providing exceptional views of faraway Turtle Island (龜山島) and Dark Rock Cape (烏岩角) 400 meters below, where the end of the Central Mountain Range dives into the Pacific. After rounding this corner, the beautiful bay in front of Dongao (東澳) comes into view as the highway winds its way down to this next major town. Before 1980, this stretch of road had only one lane and traffic proceeded in one direction at a time, controlled by checkpoints in Suao and Dongao.
At Dongao, car and truck traffic rejoins Highway No. 9, which proceeds up and down again to the next town, Nanao (南澳). Prior to 1983, this section of highway was also single-lane, with directional controls on either end, and it went around the mountain instead of through it via the Sinao Tunnel. Just before this tunnel, the pre-1983 road veers off to the left and is still in great shape. You can walk on it as far as the Wushihbi Tunnel, whose entrance is now barred.
The pre-1983 highway rejoins the current road on the other side of the Sinao Tunnel, at the 120.2K mark. Walking through an opening in the trees on the left here, you can get back onto the older road again. All of the highway infrastructure is still visible as is most of the blacktop, though it is slowly being covered up by vegetation.
Photo: Tyler Cottenie
If you continue along this older road, even though you are actually northbound now, there is still a way down to Nanao. After a kilometer or two, the road intersects with the oldest of the routes from Yilan to Hualien, one that dates back to the Qing Dynasty and that has seen use as a camphor delivery and alcohol smuggling route. Turning right here and following the footpath downhill will get you to Nanao, where car and truck traffic again separates from the Highway No. 9.
LANDMARKS LOST TO TIME
After Nanao, the road continues to provide beautiful views of the Pacific coast. This stretch of road was still single-lane as late as 1990, with traffic directional controls set up at Gufong (谷風) in Yilan County, and on the other side of the river in Hualien County, at Heping, home to Taiwan Cement’s Heping Plant. The dusty, industrial feeling of this area contrasts sharply with the clean, pristine beauty of the rest of the Suhua Highway.
Photo: Tyler Cottenie
The remaining stretch of highway from here to Chongde (崇德) was also only opened to two-lane traffic in 1990. However, this was achieved not only through widening of existing roadway but also through the construction of several new tunnels. Large parts of the narrow pre-1990 road that hugged the coast were thus entirely abandoned. This single-lane precursor to the Suhua Highway actually dates back to the Japanese-era. Between 1916 and 1923, a walking path was built from Suao to Hualien, and then later expanded to allow for car traffic by 1932. Between Heping Township (和平) and Hualien, 11 tunnels were built, only one of which remains in active use. Fortunately, it is still relatively easy to see stretches of this single-lane road and its tunnels, especially on foot.
The current Heping Tunnel bypasses an older version of the Heping tunnel, built in 1950, and the remains of Japanese tunnels 8 through 11, all of which were built right on the edge of a cliff. They can be accessed with climbing gear from the beach on the north end, and by a treacherous rope descent on the south side of Heping Tunnel (look over the guardrail at the pullout for cars), followed by a walk along the coast at low tide. The outer wall of Japanese Tunnel 8 is shaped like an elephant trunk and was featured on the old NT$1 banknote.
Just to the left of the Hejhong Tunnel entrance, the older road along the cliff is visible. Walk out a short distance on this to get a sense for how fast regular rockfall can overwhelm a road, and to see how precariously this road was carved into the cliff. Japanese Tunnel 7 was also out on this cliff but has collapsed.
Photo: Tyler Cottenie
The next tunnel is Heren Tunnel, and three different side tunnels within provide access to the outside cliffs. Walk out these side tunnels to see more of the single-lane Suhua Highway that dates back to Japanese times, and a roadside monument to Ting Pei-chun (丁培俊) who died while repairing landslide damage to the road in 1973.
Speaking of landmarks, after the town of Heren, the entrance to Taroko National Park (太魯閣國家公園) is marked by a large roadside sign, after which the Suhua passes through Japanese Tunnel 6, built in 1921 and the only one still in use today.
THE FINAL PUSH
Photo: Tyler Cottenie
After passing through Rencing and Hecing tunnels, the road rejoins car and truck traffic at the Dacingshuei Recreation Area (大清水遊憩區), and walking beside the road becomes a lot louder and dustier. Passing through the Dacingshuei Tunnel is rather uneventful, but the next two tunnels (Tunnel No. 13 and Jinwun Tunnel) are full of interesting side trips. Take all the access routes to the outside on the left to see several of the remaining Japanese tunnels (tunnels 1 through 5) and other parts of the narrow road hewn right into the marble cliffs. The views of the ocean here are incredible on their own, but paired with the remnants of the old road, they are especially grand. It’s best to enjoy the Suhua on a sunny day when the blues and greens of the ocean really shine.
Next is the Hueide Rest Stop. When the Suhua was fully opened to two-way traffic in 1990, it still stuck close to the cliffs beyond here, and passed through the Cingshuei Tunnel, also completed in 1990. In 2000, the Hueide Tunnel opened, bypassing this cliffside section of road altogether. The Cingshuei Tunnel, only in use for 10 years, was abandoned, and the bypassed section of the road opened to pedestrian traffic. Part of this road, including the tunnel, has now been closed due to landslides, but some of it is still walkable from the Hueide Rest Stop.
After passing through the Hueide and Chongde Tunnels, the road reaches Chongde, the final traffic control point from the Suhua’s single-lane days. From here to Hualien City, the Suhua Highway is a fairly ordinary road across flat ground with no historical remains to speak of.
Photo: Tyler Cottenie
Photo: Tyler Cottenie
Following the shock complete failure of all the recall votes against Chinese Nationalist Party (KMT) lawmakers on July 26, pan-blue supporters and the Chinese Communist Party (CCP) were giddy with victory. A notable exception was KMT Chairman Eric Chu (朱立倫), who knew better. At a press conference on July 29, he bowed deeply in gratitude to the voters and said the recalls were “not about which party won or lost, but were a great victory for the Taiwanese voters.” The entire recall process was a disaster for both the KMT and the Democratic Progressive Party (DPP). The only bright spot for
As last month dawned, the Democratic Progressive Party (DPP) was in a good position. The recall campaigns had strong momentum, polling showed many Chinese Nationalist Party (KMT) lawmakers at risk of recall and even the KMT was bracing for losing seats while facing a tsunami of voter fraud investigations. Polling pointed to some of the recalls being a lock for victory. Though in most districts the majority was against recalling their lawmaker, among voters “definitely” planning to vote, there were double-digit margins in favor of recall in at least five districts, with three districts near or above 20 percent in
From Godzilla’s fiery atomic breath to post-apocalyptic anime and harrowing depictions of radiation sickness, the influence of the nuclear bombings of Hiroshima and Nagasaki runs deep in Japanese popular culture. In the 80 years since the World War II attacks, stories of destruction and mutation have been fused with fears around natural disasters and, more recently, the Fukushima crisis. Classic manga and anime series Astro Boy is called “Mighty Atom” in Japanese, while city-leveling explosions loom large in other titles such as Akira, Neon Genesis Evangelion and Attack on Titan. “Living through tremendous pain” and overcoming trauma is a recurrent theme in Japan’s
The great number of islands that make up the Penghu archipelago make it a fascinating place to come back and explore again and again. On your next trip to Penghu, why not get off the beaten path and explore a lesser-traveled outlying island? Jibei Island (吉貝嶼) in Baisha Township (白沙鄉) is a popular destination for its long white sand beach and water activities. However, three other permanently inhabited islands in the township put a unique spin on the traditional Penghu charm, making them great destinations for the curious tourist: Yuanbeiyu (員貝嶼), Niaoyu (鳥嶼) and Dacangyu (大倉嶼). YUANBEIYU Citou Wharf (岐頭碼頭) connects the mainland
RSS