The chayote melon does not feature in Taiwanese cuisine very much but it is ubiquitous primarily as the base from which chayote vines are grown. It is a member of the gourd family Cucurbitaceae, which includes cucumbers, as well as a wide range of other melons and squashes. It goes by many names, sometimes referred to rather unappealingly as the vegetable pear.
Originating in Latin America, chayote has spread across the world, acquiring a diverse variety of names such as chu-chu in Brazil, su-su in Vietnam and choko in Australia. It is a relatively late arrival in Taiwan, with cultivation in China dating back only to the 1920s, which may explain its relatively slim culinary profile despite its robustness as a crop and versatility in the kitchen.
Locally, it is most widely known as the Buddha hand melon (佛手瓜), possibly due to the cleft down the middle of the fruit, which can give it the appearance of two hands brought together in prayer. Others with less poetic imaginations have likened the appearance of the vegetable to aging buttocks, a description with just as much poetic validity if less marketing appeal.
Photo: Ian Bartholomew
Chayote is sometimes used in the popular Filipino dish tinola (or tinolang manok, a rich soup usually made with chicken) and can also be found in a wide variety of Latin American and Caribbean preparations. It is noted for being extremely bland — which has put many people off — but in fact this blandness is part of its special magic, as the flavor of a good tinola will attest.
At its simplest, the chayote melon can be eaten raw, just like a pear. It is not particularly appealing eaten this way, but thrown into a salad, it is a splendid replacement for apple. Served in raw slices with a Waldorf salad or any variation the apple-and-walnut theme, it can be preferable to apple, providing plenty of crush without the unwelcome (to me at least) sweetness that apples inject into the dish.
Chayote melon can be prepared in almost every way imaginable from steaming to frying, but it shows its star quality particularly in soups. It is rich in mucins, which thicken clear soups giving them a little extra body. These mucins are also particularly good for the health, adding to an impressive list of benefits that eating chayote can bring you. Chayote contains multiple nutrients and has anti-inflammatory properties that can aid in the treatment of high-blood pressure, kidney stones and indigestion. It is low in calories with plenty of dietary fiber as well, and is therefore a good choice for anyone working to control their weight.
Photo: Ian Bartholomew
Stir-frying the melon is a popular choice, and this can make a quick and tasty dish just by the addition of some pork and perhaps a splash of good stock. Given its blandness, the chayote reflects and often intensifies the flavor of the ingredients around it, which makes it a good accompaniment with blander meats such as boiled chicken or lean pork, highlighting, or even enhancing their subtle taste. Its crunchiness make it perfect served shredded or thinly sliced with a sesame oil dressing.
Chayote keeps well, and can be used with or without the skin. Personally, I favor peeling it, as the skin can be a little thick and fibrous. The mucins in the chayote make the peeled fruit slimy and while this, unlike plants such as mountain yam, will not cause skin irritation, it can feel unpleasant and gloves should be worn by the fastidious.
Sweet potato and chayote stew
with chicken
Recipe
(Serves 4)
This simple recipe is inspired by the Filipino dish tinolang manok and hits many of the same spots as this traditional winter soup. The body of the soup is given a luscious texture and sweetness by the mucins in the chayote, and the addition of sweet potato adds another dimension to the simple yet multilayered taste. It is perfect for cold wet days, and with its mild flavor, soft textures and rich nutritional content, it is just what the doctor ordered during any kind of convalescence, or simply for curling up with a good book and a blanket.
Ingredients
Half a chicken, chopped
2 small chayote melons
3 small sweet potatoes
500ml chicken stock (preferably homemade)
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 small onion, roughly chopped
A handful of shimeji mushrooms
A handful of fennel fronds, to garnish
2 tbsp olive oil
Salt and pepper to season
Directions
1. Peel and chop the chayote melon and remove any seeds in the center. Cut into bite-sized chunks. Peel the sweet potato and cut into similar-sized pieces.
2. Heat a pot over low heat and add olive. Add the onions and saute until they begin to turn translucent.
3. Add garlic and fry for another minute or so. Season with salt and pepper.
4. Add the chayote melon and saute for a couple of minutes, than add the stock and chicken. Bring to a boil then allow to simmer for 20 minutes.
5. Add the shimeji mushrooms. Adjust seasoning. Simmer for another 10 minutes.
6. Garnish with fennel fronds and serve warm.
Ian Bartholomew runs Ian’s Table, a small guesthouse in Hualien. He has lived in Taiwan for many years writing about the food scene and has decided that until you look at farming, you know nothing about the food you eat. He can be contacted at Hualien202@gmail.com.
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