A distinctive feature of Taiwan’s culinary landscape, the rechao (熱炒, literally “hot-fry”) joint is a perennial favorite with its fresh seafood, bargain prices and unpretentious atmosphere. I usually avoid such places, however, for several reasons, not least of which are the sometimes dirty surroundings, questionable hygiene standards, and inebriated men playing drinking games at a deafening volume while smoking like chimneys.
Located in the heart of Taipei’s East District (東區), Xanadu (鮮納肚) has restored my faith in rechao restaurants. Though boasting the typical trappings, including beer girls, it is an updated and much tidier version.
The interior is orderly and brightly lit; the utensils look clean. There is no fishy smell and smoking is not allowed until 9pm at the earliest, according to the restaurant’s very sociable proprietor.
Photo: Ho Yi, Taipei Times
Many of Xanadu’s dishes are made from offal. Popular dishes include sauteed pork liver (香煎豬肝, NT$100), which is delectably tender and doesn’t leave a metallic taste in the mouth like other restaurants’ versions do.
The extensive seafood menu includes sashimi platters of salmon, tuna, swordfish and squid that cost between NT$100 and NT$190 per dish.
The dragon balls (鹹酥龍珠, NT$150), or octopus mouths fried with scallion, chili and peanuts, come recommended, though they could be habit-forming.
Photo: Ho Yi, Taipei Times
Xanadu’s shuizhu pork slices (水煮肉片), boiled strips of pork and vegetables served with oil and spices, is a localized version of a Sichuan specialty. By localized, I mean the dish lacks the numbing quality of the Sichuan peppercorn. The dish comes in three sizes, with the smallest (NT$300) enough for a group of three.
The open seafood display offers options that are often not on the menu. Ask the waitstaff for recommendations, but treat the response with a healthy dose of skepticism. On a recent visit, my dining partners and I ordered a crab that cost NT$1,000 on the recommendation of our server. It turned out to be very disappointing.
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