On my first visit to Milano, the oddly named Indonesian restaurant that opened four months ago in an alley close to Shida night market (師大夜市), I kept making eye contact with a man who was furiously waving a fan in a futile attempt to keep cool. Only one of the dining room’s two air conditioners was on and it took repeated requests before the servers turned on the other. So much for service, I thought.
Two weeks later, on my second visit, the air was cooler and the service had improved considerably: So much for first impressions. With Taipei’s large Indonesian population, it’s surprising that there aren’t more restaurants serving the country’s cuisine. Milano is a welcome addition to Shida night market, which of late has seen a number of restaurants opening that are heavy
on hamburgers.
As I am unfamiliar with Indonesian cuisine, my initial visit saw me play it safe: chicken soto (soup) with glass noodles (NT$100), yellow chicken curry (NT$150) and fried morning glory with baby shrimp and red chilies (NT$100). These dishes all stood out for containing a minimum amount of oil (especially surprising for the soup and curry) and cooked to bring out the natural flavors of the ingredients.
Satisfied that the kitchen staff knew what they were doing, my next visit saw me become a little more experimental with flavor combinations. The grilled fish with spicy Balinese dressing (NT$170) was a delightful combination of flavors. The spicy and sour sauce coating the fish went well with the light flavor of the flesh and served as an interesting counterpoint to the fiery hot Balinese dressing. The sauce that came with deep-fried crispy egg pancake stuffed with vegetables (NT$80) also packed a spicy punch.
With my mouth aflame from the sauces, the arrival of the six-piece chicken satay (NT$160) granted a degree of relief. The savory chunky peanut gravy and slightly sweet barbeque marinade went well with the taste of the grilled meat. We also ordered nasi goreng (NT$120), an Indonesian fried rice that was infused with baby shrimp, sliced fish balls and topped with a fried egg and chicken drumstick. It didn’t make much of an impression and seemed more like a lunch box served on a plate.
Milano features a number of Indonesian-inspired desserts and drinks that are worth a try. I went with cendol (NT$60), a dessert consisting of coconut milk, brown sugar, green jelly (similar to the kind found in pearl milk tea) and ice. After the spicy meal, it was very refreshing and not too sweet.
As the majority of Indonesia’s population is Muslim, my server assured me that all the food on the menu is halal, or permissible according to Islamic law. Balinese masks and tapestries depicting the country’s famous puppet theater adorn the vanilla walls and add to the restaurant’s Indonesian atmosphere.
Milano has a second location in Tianmu at 33 Zhenxing St, Taipei City(台北市振興街33號).
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