Chinese people invented paper, gunpowder and even noodles, according to everyone but the Italians. And it seems Chinese may have also invented the pulled pork barbecue sandwich, a possibility that may raise eyebrows from South Carolina to Texas. But the evidence is there in the gua-bao, a steamed flat bun stuffed with stewed pork, peanut powder and cilantro that has been part of northern Chinese cuisine for centuries.
There are a few stores in Taipei selling this specialty and one of the most popular is the tiny Lan Family Gua-bao near National Taiwan University.
The Lan family eatery offers five versions of the gua-bao that differ in the amount of fat that is stuffed into the bun together with the meat. To experience the full flavor of this delicacy, nothing comes close to the full fatty meat variety. This gua-bao is extravagantly greasy, so diners will be thankful the sandwich is served in plastic wrapping that keeps the fingers from being covered in juices. All the gua-bao cost NT$40 a piece.
PHOTO: MAX WOODWORTH, TAIPEI TIMES
But as tasty as gua-bao are, they don't quite constitute a meal. To fill a hungry stomach, try some of the Lan family's other specialties, like the four spirits soup (四神湯). The soup is a tonic containing hearty, tender snips of pig's intestine and flavored by lotus seeds and barley. This full-bodied dish is overflowing with wholesome nutrients that your body is clamoring for even if your palate disagrees. The alleged tonic power of four spirits soup is most suited for winter weather, so those wary of overheating can opt for the corn and pork rib soup, which is also served hot, but doesn't carry the risk of a chi overload.
The restaurant also serves pig's intestine noodles in a rich and tangy soup that can be given an added zest in its spicy variety. The only rice option at the restaurant is the supremely fragrant tzong-zi (
A sign of the universal appeal of meat wrapped in bread can be seen in the praising notes posted on the walls that were written by diners from around the world who ate the gua-bao. The dozen-or-so messages make up most of the spartan decor in the Lan family's simple and friendly establishment that caters mainly to students from the university across the street. The Kungkuan area is full of cheap eateries, but the Lan Family Gua-bao stands out as a great place for a quick and tasty meal that's a bit different from the regular choice of rice and noodles.
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