If you're looking for a delicious, moderately-priced Indian restaurant where you can fill the table with a bumper crop of masalas, chick peas, curries and nan (Indian style unleavened bread), Kunming is one of the best in Taipei. The restaurant offers classic recipes from India, the Middle East and parts of Southeast Asia, giving stiff competition to the best dishes at any of Taipei's other Indian restaurants.
The prices at Kunming are an extra bonus. Vegetable plates, salads and hummus begin at NT$120, with more expensive dishes like Tandoori chicken topping out the menu at NT$250. Even the biggest feasts (it's best to go with a few people) seldom produce a bill that exceeds NT$350 a person, which is a bargain compared to the NT$600 or more one would have to pay for a similar meal elsewhere.
The musakka (NT$240) is exceptionally good. A Turkish recipe, the dish consists primarily of finely-ground beef that is seasoned and cooked with eggplant. The platter is then topped with green peppers, tomatoes and a trace of yogurt sauce. Samosas (NT$120), an appetizer of fried pastries stuffed with vegetables and served with sauce, are likewise delicious. Indian milk tea (NT$50) serves as a perfect cap to any meal.
PHOTO: DAVID FRAZIER, TAIPEI TIMES
Kunming is run by Yacoob Mah (馬雲昌) whose family originally hails from Yunnan, but was forced to flee to Burma in World War II and eventually made it to Taiwan 20 years ago. The family then opened its restaurant using a mix of recipes acquired over the years.
The only area in which Kunming could be said to be lacking is in its decor. The carved-wood furniture, the odd lamps and other elements associated with Indian dining rooms are not to be found. Instead, the interior lends itself more to the slightly drab non-style of mid-range Taiwanese eateries, with the addition of minor touches, like a large picture of the Taj Mahal on one of the concrete walls.
Even so, the general atmosphere is comfortable, and the owner is apt to play the genial host. Repeat customers are often greeted with a smile and sometimes rewarded for their patronage.
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