Thu, May 11, 2006 - Page 17 News List

Greenland's chefs use reindeer, musk ox
格陵蘭大廚以馴鹿、麝香牛入菜

Two musk ox bulls from Greenland wrestle in Alaska.
兩隻格陵蘭的麝香牛在阿拉斯加搏鬥。 (照片:美聯社)

PHOTO: AP

Although not famous for its food, Greenland is beginning to get attention because of a small group of chefs eager to make use of the country's resources. They are exploring the boundaries and searching out their own versions of perfection with native products.

At a restaurant known as The Rowing Club on the edge of Kangerlussuaq, chef Kim Ernst prepares musk ox he buys from local hunters. A typical appetizer in his restaurant might consist of lightly smoked reindeer meat, served next to tiny local shrimp and scallops. Though simple, each of the products shines on its own.

The restaurant sits on the edge of a lake so pure that it provides drinking water for the town below, and Ernst and his three-person crew welcome 300 to 400 guests a week.

Up the west coast in Ilulissat, classical training and local ingredients come into play.

Although the ingredients can seem odd at first to outsiders, the results can be spectacular, such as at the new Restaurant Mamartut, run by Danish chef Kim Pederson.

His spectacular appetizers include whale carpaccio with capers, angelica and parmesan shavings, and mattaq -- deep-fried whale skin over a sorbet made with a lemon-flavored plant.

At the Hotel Arctic, which has igloos that are reported to be a favorite of Icelandic singer Bjork, icebergs provide the dramatic backdrop for Danish chef Michael Mortensen's Restaurant Ulo.

Mortensen was one of the chefs who prepared the sumptuous food in the film Babette's Feast. He brings his mastery of European techniques to some of Greenland's native products.

For example, his reindeer filet in blackberry sauce is a stunning example of local product cooked to perfection. (AFP)

Reading Comprehension
閱讀測驗

1. Greenland ...

a. is famous for its food.

b. has a very warm climate.

c. has musk oxen.

2. What are these chefs trying to do?

a. Bring over more food from Europe.

b. Use local food to make delicious dishes.

c. Open more restaurants.

3. Where is Restaurant Ulo?

a. At the Hotel Arctic.

b. On a glacier.

c. On the edge of a lake.

4. What has Mortensen done before?

a. Hunted musk oxen.

b. Prepared food for a movie.

c. Caught halibut.


格陵蘭雖不是以美食聞名,但它將開始受到注目,因為少數幾名廚師迫不及待要汲取格陵蘭的資源,開拓美食新領域,以本土產品探索自己對飲食的完美詮釋。

Kangerlussuaq 外圍一家名為 The Rowing Club 的餐廳內,主廚金*恩斯特向當地獵人購買麝香牛來備食。恩斯特的餐廳內,標準的開胃菜是稍微煙燻過的馴鹿肉,搭配當地的蝦米干貝。雖是簡單,卻各有獨特風格。

這家餐廳坐落於湖畔,湖水之清澈,甚至能作為下游城鎮的飲用水。恩斯特和他的三名員工每星期接待三百到四百名賓客。

傳統訓練結合當地食材的作法,在伊路利薩特西岸的美食圈開始發酵。

對外來者來說,這些食材乍聽之下或許有點古怪,但融合激盪的火花卻令人驚奇,丹麥廚師金*佩德森所經營的新餐廳 Restaurant Mamartut 便是一例。

他驚奇的開胃菜包括生鯨肉薄片搭配酸豆、歐白芷和巴拿馬乾酪削片,以及「mattaq」 -- 以檸檬草製成的雪酪,上面覆蓋酥炸鯨魚皮。

旅館 Hotel Arctic 的冰屋據說是冰島歌手碧玉的最愛,冰山為丹麥廚師麥克*莫坦森的餐廳 Restaurant Ulo 提供張力十足的背景。

莫坦森是為電影「芭比的盛宴」籌備豪華餐飲的主廚之一,為格陵蘭部份當地的食材注入歐式登峰造極的廚藝。

例如,他的黑莓醬馴鹿菲力便是當地美食淋漓盡致的驚艷之作。 (法新社/翻譯:鄭湘儀)

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