Sat, Oct 15, 2016 - Page 14 News List

Book review: Taiwan revealed

Richard Saunders’ latest guidebook goes beyond his usual hiking trips, covering everything from traditional crafts and the history and culture of the nation’s Aboriginal tribes to historic spots such as Tainan — all in 101 chapters

By Dana Ter  /  Staff reporter

Taiwan 101: Essential Sights,
Hikes and Experiences on Ilha Formosa, volume one.

Longtime Taipei resident Richard Saunders continues to prove that guidebooks are not obsolete with his latest series, Taiwan 101: Essential Sights, Hikes and Experiences on Ilha Formosa. Unlike his previous guidebooks, which focus primarily on hiking, Saunders here covers more terrain, including traditional crafts, the history and culture of Aboriginal tribes and historic towns such as Tainan in the 101 chapters spanning the two-volume publication.

The trained concert pianist from London has been leading hiking trips around Taiwan since he founded Taipei Hikers — which is now a Meetup group — in 2002. Saunders’ prose is lyrical and he makes even the dullest topics — the history of coal mining in Houtong (猴硐) or the migration of purple crow butterflies (one of the world’s largest) — captivating, and even sexy. And he manages to be both practical and personal in his writing.

Each chapter is filled with detailed directions and handy travel hacks. We learn, for instance, that the best time to visit Kenting Forest Recreation Area (墾丁森林遊樂區) is just before they close at 5pm when the hordes of tourists have departed. Each chapter ends with a “Practicalities” section with information on transportation and opening hours, along with GPS coordinates of sites. It also helps to have the Chinese names of places for travelers who may not know Chinese and can show the book to passersby, should they get lost.

When reading the book, it feels as if Saunders is with you every step of the journey. He’s the ultimate know-all tour guide, though he’s neither high-handed nor snooty. Moreover, Saunders does not rely on just photographs — which can be found in the middle of the book in both volumes. His vivid descriptions will make even those averse to outdoor activity want to venture out and explore.

Publication Notes

Taiwan 101: Essential Sights, Hikes and Experiences on Ilha Formosa

By Richard Saunders

Volume I: 384 pages

Volume II: 425 pages

Community Services Center

Paperback: Taipei

“The astonishing little flourish of craggy mountains that loom over the Pacific on Taiwan’s northeast coast offers probably the finest walking country in the Taipei region,” he writes.

His sense of place is particularly astute. Saunders begins nearly every chapter with a brief but detailed overview of the area’s history or topography. He describes how Siaoliouciou island (小琉球) was the site of a bloody massacre in 1636 when the Dutch exacted revenge on the now-extinct Lamayan Aborigines. Another section details how cypress trees in Taipingshan (太平山) were chopped down to fuel the logging industry during the Japanese colonial era in the first half of the twentieth century.

In his chapter on Shuiyang Lake (水漾), we learn how nature is an omnipotent force in Taiwan that continually shapes the natural landscape. The lake was created by the Sept. 21, 1999 earthquake, the result of which is “hundreds of ghostly, ashen-white tree trunks, reflected in the still, clear water from which they rise.”

The background Saunders provides gives readers a greater appreciation of the places they visit. A temple is not just a colorful, ornate structure, but something that has been modified throughout time and anchors the community. Likewise, the book encourages interaction with and appreciation of Taiwan’s landscape. Nature is not a mere backdrop for selfies — it’s something to be respected and enjoyed.

Saunders makes this clear, especially in his annoyance towards the tourism boom, which is evident throughout the book.

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