Standing alone at Miaoli County’s Yingtsai Academy (英才書院), looking at a neon plastic bow and arrow behind a thick pane of glass that is supposedly an artifact of Taiwan’s Confucian education tradition, I suddenly begin to feel I’ve just wasted my NT$50.
“Before we began charging for admission, the Yingtsai Academy used to receive over 30 tour buses a day. Now, we’re lucky to have 10 on the weekend,” said a lonely security guard working double duty at the information counter, who gave his surname as Lai (賴).
Following revelations that the county’s debt had reached an untenable level and would require a bailout due to years of unbridled spending under former county commissioner Liu Cheng-hung (劉政鴻), it has begun to charge admission to recoup losses on the pricey new tourist spots.
But a recent visit by this reporter to these Liu-era attractions was a depressing showcase of unsustainable tourism development, with most having little historical or even general interest for either local or foreign tourists. Now, they face an uncertain future as visitor numbers plunge.
Miaoli County is known for its striking natural beauty, with the Houlong River (後龍溪) snaking its way through the county, and the mountains of Shei-Pa National Park (雪霸國家公園) looming large in the distance.
In the past few years, the county has earned an unfortunate reputation for being Liu’s personal fiefdom, one where, during his nine-year tenure, he tripled the local debt to NT$64.8 billion on questionable construction projects that have sometimes spoiled the county’s natural beauty.
Liu has sought to capitalize on Miaoli’s status as a hotbed of Hakka culture, where 64.6 percent of the county claims Hakka heritage. He ordered the construction of a series of grandiose tourist attractions — the mammoth Hakka Courtyard and Culture Development Center (苗栗客家文化園區, thcc.hakka.gov.tw), the faux-historic Hakka Roundhouse (客家圓樓, hakkaroundhouse.mlc.gov.tw) and Yingtsai Academy. A museum, the Urban Planning Exhibition Center (城市規劃館, mcupec.mlc.gov.tw/), was also built as a kind of tribute to all of Liu’s public construction projects.
However, many of the above tourist spots do not seem designed with convenient transportation, quality exhibition content, or even enjoyment in mind. Reaching many of the attractions is a trying affair, with some being located at great distances from each other. Signs directing tourists to the attractions are often nowhere to be seen.
Miaoli’s Hakka roundhouse, a modern reconstruction of a traditional tulou (土樓) earth-brick building native to China’s Fujian province, certainly appeared busy when I first visited on a Saturday morning.
Tour buses full of pensioners were paying the NT$30 entrance fee to take a look inside. But just as soon as they came in, they were out. Aside from a performance stage, a few miniature models of tulou buildings in China, there is nothing to engage a visitor longer than 20 minutes.
“It’s mostly just a place for retirees to sit in an air-conditioned building for an hour. There’s nothing else there [to do],” said Alice Wang (王美惠), a Miaoli resident who chuckled when asked what she thought of the roundhouse.
The Urban Planning Exhibition Center located in downtown Miaoli was an even sadder affair. On our weekend visit to the center, my partner and myself were the only visitors.