Tue, Jun 17, 2014 - Page 12 News List

Tourist trap

Despite the risks, tour operators say business to North Korea is booming, but critics say tourist dollars are helping to prop up the country’s repressive regime

By James Pearson  /  Reuters, Seoul

North Koreans visit statues of North Korea’s founder Kim Il Sung and his son and late leader Kim Jong Il at Mansudae hill in Pyongyang, in January.

Photo: Reuters

“Taking you to places where your mother would rather you stayed away from.” That’s how one Western travel agency advertises its tours to North Korea.

The US government doesn’t want you to go there either. Three of its citizens have been detained in the last eight months while on tourist trips to North Korea, including Jeffrey Fowle, a visitor from Miamisburg, Ohio, who was arrested in May.

Despite the risks, tour operators say business to North Korea is booming, albeit from a low base for one of the most isolated countries in the world. For Pyongyang, tourism is one of the few sources of the foreign currency it relies on to overcome US sanctions related to its nuclear and missile programs.

While the country does not publish tourist numbers, travel agencies estimate as many as 6,000 Westerners visit the country every year, compared to just 700 a decade ago. Most are adventure-seekers curious about life behind the last slither of the iron curtain, and ignore critics who say their dollars are propping up a repressive regime.

The vast majority of tourists to North Korea are from neighboring China, North Korea’s main ally.

“People are people,” said Keith Ballard, an American tourist currently in North Korea. “I can take politics out of it.

“Did anyone have any ethical concerns about me travelling here? Yes they did, some people said why would you even go there to support that government,” he said by telephone. “I said, hey, it’s basically just tourism.”

Last month, the US Department of State said it now “strongly recommends” against all travel to North Korea, citing the risk of “arbitrary arrest.”

Joshua Stanton, a Washington DC-based lawyer who served with the US military in South Korea and writes a blog on North Korea, says the tourist dollars prop up the government of Kim Jong-un, the third of his family to rule the country.

“The companies selling these overpriced tours need customers gullible enough to believe that they’ll be safe there, and that their visits will somehow change North Korea for the better,” he said in an e-mail. “The first claim is false, and the second claim is dubious.”


The warnings do not appear to be having much effect.

Beijing-based Koryo Tours, one of the biggest operators sending Westerners into North Korea, has seen a tenfold rise in business in the past decade, peaking at about 2,100 visitors in 2012, according to Simon Cockerell, its general manager.

Around a quarter of those, Cockerell said, were American.

Troy Collings of Young Pioneer Tours, another China-based foreign travel agency specializing in trips to North Korea, says his company is seeing business double annually, and had nearly 1,000 clients in the past year.

Travel agents and others say those who have been detained in North Korea have usually been held for a specific reason, such as attempting to proselytize or independently contacting locals — which the US travel advisory specifically warns against.

“I realized that if you are going there strictly as a tourist with no other agenda, then the DPRK is a very safe place to travel,” Dusty Mapson, a recent tourist to the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (DPRK), the official name for North Korea, said by e-mail.

“I was a little worried about my military background being an issue during my trip,” said Mapson, who served in the US Navy. But he faced no problems.

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