Though Corbett’s landscape was more impressive, Ranthambhore’s history is more interesting. The next morning I climbed a hill to the park’s massive 11th-century fort, which is protected from tigers and other predators by its tall walls.
I wandered through crumbling pavilions and enjoyed sweeping views of steep canyons. While I didn’t see tigers, I could sense their presence. A herd of deer twitched nervously. A monkey scanned the savannah from its canopy perch.
Somewhere, hidden within the trees, tigers were hunting.



