This was the next stop. As with the fish market, the wholesale fruit and vegetable market offers a preview of things just coming into season. It was a delight to find some lovely new local strawberries, which had yet to appear in Taipei’s markets. They would still be a little tart, the stall owner said, suggesting some imported varieties instead. David Ansted, Far Eastern’s executive chef, who had accompanied Nakamura on this trip, picked up a number of boxes of the local fruit, saying that the tartness had its own special appeal. “It produces a very intense flavor when cooked,” he explained.
The wholesale section of the fruit market was a huge hanger, but the fruits and vegetables where displayed there like jewels. Getting the best was not always an easy matter, and even at this early hour, vendors would shake their heads over some premium item, saying that the stock had already been sold out. Wax apples, black cherries, blueberries, varieties of lemons, quite apart from all the seasonal fruit, were on display, and very tempting if you were prepared to buy your fruit by the case. The grand scale of this market even made it a stop for a South Korean tour group who arrived in a coach to have pictures taken next to the stacked boxes of fruit.
Moving out of the wholesale area, we entered the retail market for fruit and vegetables, which was a treasure trove for anyone looking to buy larger quantities or simply seeking ingredients not readily available at smaller markets. Fennel, parsley and organic-grown basil were unexpected finds, as were whole hibiscus flowers, along with heaps of chilies of various sizes and spiciness, garlic whole, peeled, chopped and mashed, and bales of spring onions. Local and imported produce were both available. While some of the shops clearly favor customers buying in bulk, there was also plenty here for the home chef to get excited about.
Our shopping done, I walked back through the wholesale fish market. All that remained of the pre-dawn bustle were mountains of Styrofoam boxes and acres of torn, wet plastic sheeting waiting to be recycled. Workers were out with hoses washing down the concrete floor while others were sitting at neighboring cooked food stalls winding down after their day’s work. It would all start again at 3am next day.
As with most traditional markets, both wholesale markets are closed Mondays.



