All aboard

Living in the stuffy, bustling atmosphere of metropolitan Taipei, it is often easy to lose sight of the picturesque landscapes that lie right on the city's doorstep. The Bureau of Traffic offers urbanites an alternative method of traveling about Taipei and the chance to enjoy the city's more idyllic settings with its River Cruise; a system of ferry routes with stops at some of the capital's major tourist spots.

The idea for the Blue Highway system (藍色公路), which uses the Danshui and Keelung rivers, was first floated in 1990 as a way to accommodate transportation outflows caused by the dismantling of the railroad connecting Danshui to Taipei Main Station to make way for the MRT's Danshui Line.

The ferry system did not succeed. In 2000 the route was revitalized as a tourist attraction.

The main trunk of the River Cruise runs along the Danshui River, stretching from its northernmost point at Fisherman's Wharf in Danshui town to its southernmost point at Dadaocheng Wharf (大稻埕碼頭).

The other outpost of the River Cruise connects to the route along the Keelung River to Dajia Wharf (大佳碼頭).

Ferry rides between wharfs range in price from NT$20 to NT$250 depending on the distance traveled and the time of day. Additionally, from Danshui's Fisherman's Wharf (漁人碼頭) it is possible to take a

50-minute sightseeing cruise that takes passengers to the very mouth of the river. Most of the stop-off points connect to cycle ways that line the rivers and bikes can be rented nearby.

Getting started on any one of these routes is relatively easy as most of the wharfs are within walking distance of an MRT station or bus stop. On exiting Danshui MRT station, signs direct passengers to the wharf.

The town's waterfront and Old Street areas offer plenty of distractions for people of all ages, with arcades, stores selling traditional wares, and restaurants and small eateries that feature local specialties such as fish ball soup and steamed crabs and scallops.

From Danshui Wharf, it is only a 10-minute ferry ride to nearby Fisherman's Wharf and Bali Wharf (八里碼頭). At Fisher-man's Wharf, take a leisurely walk across Lover's Bridge (情人橋) to arrive at the Fish Market, which is filled with vendors eager to let you sample their specialty foods, including sour plum juice and pork jerky. Live fish can be bought from the market's many tanks. The restaurant one floor above will cook fish bought from the market below.

Tourist spots include the Shihsanhang Museum of Archeology (十三行博物館) at Bali that focuses on the anthropological origins of Taiwan's Pingpu Aboriginal tribe and the Mangrove Conservation Area (紅樹林自然保留區).

These three areas surrounding the wharfs on the Blue Highway routes are delightful in their lack of city buzz. The air is refreshing, and the scenery, especially the views of the river and Guanyin Mountain, are quiet reminders of Taiwan's natural beauty.

The boat ride from Bali or Danshui to Guandu Wharf (關渡碼頭) takes about 30 minutes. Guandu is not as scenic as its neighboring tourist spots to the north, as construction work is in progress along the riverfront. Nevertheless, this area still has many attractions. It boasts a large, canopied food court filled with local delicacies. Twitchers are advised to visit the Guandu Nature Park, which includes diverse wetlands, and is perfectly suited to bird-watching. Make sure to visit the vast and eye-catching Guandu Temple, as well as the Tittot Museum (琉園水晶博物館), which features an impressive collection of fine glass sculptures.