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All aboard

By Meagan Ju
CONTRIBUTING REPORTER
Wednesday, Jun 14, 2006, Page 13

PHOTO: LIU HSIN-DE, TAIPEI TIMES

Living in the stuffy, bustling atmosphere of metropolitan Taipei, it is often easy to lose sight of the picturesque landscapes that lie right on the city's doorstep. The Bureau of Traffic offers urbanites an alternative method of traveling about Taipei and the chance to enjoy the city's more idyllic settings with its River Cruise; a system of ferry routes with stops at some of the capital's major tourist spots.

The idea for the Blue Highway system (藍色公路), which uses the Danshui and Keelung rivers, was first floated in 1990 as a way to accommodate transportation outflows caused by the dismantling of the railroad connecting Danshui to Taipei Main Station to make way for the MRT's Danshui Line.

The ferry system did not succeed. In 2000 the route was revitalized as a tourist attraction.

The main trunk of the River Cruise runs along the Danshui River, stretching from its northernmost point at Fisherman's Wharf in Danshui town to its southernmost point at Dadaocheng Wharf (大稻埕碼頭).

The other outpost of the River Cruise connects to the route along the Keelung River to Dajia Wharf (大佳碼頭).

Ferry rides between wharfs range in price from NT$20 to NT$250 depending on the distance traveled and the time of day. Additionally, from Danshui's Fisherman's Wharf (漁人碼頭) it is possible to take a 50-minute sightseeing cruise that takes passengers to the very mouth of the river. Most of the stop-off points connect to cycle ways that line the rivers and bikes can be rented nearby.

With tickets ranging from NT$20 to NT$250, river ferries are a cheap and convenient way to get around the tourist spots of northern Taipei. PHOTO: CHEN JUNG-FONG, TAIPEI TIMES

Getting started on any one of these routes is relatively easy as most of the wharfs are within walking distance of an MRT station or bus stop. On exiting Danshui MRT station, signs direct passengers to the wharf.

The town's waterfront and Old Street areas offer plenty of distractions for people of all ages, with arcades, stores selling traditional wares, and restaurants and small eateries that feature local specialties such as fish ball soup and steamed crabs and scallops.

Speedboats and larger vessels cruise the Blue Highway. Passengers board the boat from Danshui. PHOTO: MEAGAN HU, TAIPEI TIMES

From Danshui Wharf, it is only a 10-minute ferry ride to nearby Fisherman's Wharf and Bali Wharf (八里碼頭). At Fisher-man's Wharf, take a leisurely walk across Lover's Bridge (情人橋) to arrive at the Fish Market, which is filled with vendors eager to let you sample their specialty foods, including sour plum juice and pork jerky. Live fish can be bought from the market's many tanks. The restaurant one floor above will cook fish bought from the market below.

It may not compare to Venice, or even Bangkok, but a pleasant day out can be had on the capital's waterways. PHOTO: CHAO SHIH-HSUN

Tourist spots include the Shihsanhang Museum of Archeology (十三行博物館) at Bali that focuses on the anthropological origins of Taiwan's Pingpu Aboriginal tribe and the Mangrove Conservation Area (紅樹林自然保留區).

These three areas surrounding the wharfs on the Blue Highway routes are delightful in their lack of city buzz. The air is refreshing, and the scenery, especially the views of the river and Guanyin Mountain, are quiet reminders of Taiwan's natural beauty.

The boat ride from Bali or Danshui to Guandu Wharf (關渡碼頭) takes about 30 minutes. Guandu is not as scenic as its neighboring tourist spots to the north, as construction work is in progress along the riverfront. Nevertheless, this area still has many attractions. It boasts a large, canopied food court filled with local delicacies. Twitchers are advised to visit the Guandu Nature Park, which includes diverse wetlands, and is perfectly suited to bird-watching. Make sure to visit the vast and eye-catching Guandu Temple, as well as the Tittot Museum (琉園水晶博物館), which features an impressive collection of fine glass sculptures.

Riding the ferry to Dadaocheng takes you away from the calm of Danshui back into the metropolitan bustle of Taipei. And while the ferry ride is enjoyable along this stretch of the Blue Highway, the inherent charm of this River Cruise is the respite from the city smog that it offers, something that is most noticeable along the Danshui leg of the route.

Dadaocheng Wharf has many points of interest, including the Lin Liu-Hsin Puppet Museum (林柳新紀念偶戲博物館) and Hsiahai City God Temple (霞海城隍廟), located on the well-preserved Dihua Street (迪化街).

It is also possible to take the ferry along Keelung River to the Dajia Wharf.

Here, you can visit Taipei Fine Arts Museum (台北市立美術管館) the Taipei Children's Recreation Center (台北兒童育樂中心), or the nearby amusement park. Perhaps the most scenic areas Dajia Wharf has to offer are the Dajia Riverside Park (大佳河濱公園), which boasts a grand water fountain, as well as the expansive Xinsheng Park (新生公園), which is a great place for group outings and sporting activities.

There are different types of passenger boats to choose from along the Blue Highway, operated by different companies. The 80-seat ferries that ply the route sell snacks and beverages and have plenty of room to enjoy the outdoor surroundings. The seating on the smaller speedboats is enclosed, giving only a limited view of the riverbanks, and the ride tends to be uncomfortably loud and bumpy.

The Blue Highway can be unreliable. On a recent trip this reporter found that ferries were not running from Guandu Wharf, meaning that buses and MRT transportation were required to travel to and from this spot. It's easy enough to do, but certainly a letdown if your aim is to get out on the water.

However, these temporary incon-veniences are to be expected as the Taipei City Government is working to improve the Blue Highway system. Just recently, the Public Works Department spent NT$175 million on constructing new marinas for ferries at the Dajia Wharf. Further improvements the city has in mind include the use of solar-powered boats.

Despite some shortcomings, the Blue Highway is a relatively cheap and convenient way to taste local specialties, take in a number of interesting tourist spots and enjoy the open spaces that the river offers.

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