Fri, Apr 28, 2006 - Page 15 News List

Restaurant: Moonlight Tea House 玥飲軒

Address: 80 Wenzhou St, Taipei (台北市溫州街80號)
Telephone: (02) 8369-3963O
Open: 12pm to 12am
Average meal: NT$350
Details: Chinese and Japanese menu

By Ginger Yang  /  STAFF REPORTER

Love it or hate, there's milk tea in this hotpot.

PHOTOT: GINGER YANG, TAIPEI TIMES

Remember the scene of the battle in the bamboo forest in Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon? The Moonlight Tea House (玥飲軒), located in the National Taiwan University district, stands out from the crowd of coffee shops in the area by virtue of its unusual decor. It too, is surrounded by bamboo, setting the atmosphere for its poetic name.

Walk past the willow tree outside the Moonlight Tea House and you are welcomed into a time machine -- you can eat the way it was 1,000 years ago in Tang Dynasty, sitting on the floor, appreciating paintings from the royal court.

Tables are separated from each other by gauze partitions, which provides a sense of privacy. The place is good for relaxing, meditating, or having a deep talk with your friends. The restroom is decorated as though it were a garden.

The Moonlight Tea House is famous for its milk tea hotpot (NT$450). Instead of regular soup made from meat and

vegetables, milk tea is used as the stock. Naturally, no milk tea hotpot would be complete without tapioca balls, but the hotpot also comes with all the usual hotpot trappings. The addition of fried dough sticks and fish floss is an added extra. Such departures from convention make this a dish that customers either love or hate: it is definitely not for the faint hearted.

Another tea-based hotpot is the leicha (擂茶) hotpot, which makes use of Hakka-style gruel tea as the stock.

Given its name, it is no surprise that in addition to hotpots, the establishment also specializes in quality teas, and is a mecca for Japanese tourists seeking to experience the Chinese version of the tea ceremony. Moonlight Tea House has specially trained waiters who will assist at the tea ceremony for a fee of NT$100 per head.

Top quality teas grown at high altitudes are highly recommended at Moonlight Tea House, though they do not come cheap. Waiters will direct patrons on how to appreciate the five separate flavors that can be found in high mountain Oolong as the temperature of the water changes. A pot of this tea will set you back NT$700 (enough for three or four).

You don't have to be a high roller though to enjoy quality tea here. A basic pot of rosy lee for one is NT$150.

The tea house is also a point of interest for collectors of teapots. One of the most expensive on display, from the Qing Dynasty, costs more than NT$1 million. You can also enjoy Chinese Zither (guzheng,古箏) performances every Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday nights while supping tea.

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