Wed, Mar 09, 2005 - Page 16 News List

Heading back into the hills

Nepal offers the best trekking in the world, but is it safe? One intrepid hiker looks beyond the recent headlines

By Ed Douglas  /  THE GUARDIAN , LONDON

"There seems to be a real feeling that local people are getting fed up with Maoist strikes and that, perhaps, there will be a change in their tactics soon," one tour operator said.

Dervla Murphy once called Nepal "The Waiting Land." Those ordinary Nepalese who rely on tourism for their living will hope the wait is nearly over.

What to see

Mustang

The Lobas people of Mustang, part of the Tibetan plateau, date their tiny kingdom -- which they call Lo -- back to the 5th century.

★ Why go?

Mustang's capital, Lo Manthang (meaning plain of aspiration in Tibetan), and trekking into this remote and restricted corner of the Himalayas are high on the list of the cognoscenti.

★ Travel note:

Permit restrictions mean you'll have to travel with an officially approved operator. Numerous operators are available in Kathmandu.

Everest

★ Why go?

They don't come any bigger than the biggest mountain on Earth. The scenery is spectacular, but arrive out of October's high season and you'll experience Sherpa culture at its best.

★ How to get there?

You can do the round-trip from the airstrip at Lukla to Everest Base Camp in around 15 days, but adopt a more leisurely pace and you'll have more time to acclimatize and enjoy the experience. You can do it yourself for US$1,000 with a Lonely Planet trekking guide and cheap lodges.

Langtang and Helamba

Annapurna and Everest may grab the headlines, but Langtang and its neighboring region of Helambu offer stunning scenery, charming villages and far fewer trekkers.

★ Why go?

You can trek from Dhunche to the foot of glaciers in the Langtang valley, visit the holy lakes of Gosainkund and trek among the beautiful Sherpa villages of Helambu, a little corner of paradise.

★ How to get there?

Public transportation is convenient to Langtang and Helamba, which lie only 75km from Kathmandu.

Annapurna

Nepal's most popular trekking destination has walks from a few days to a complete circuit of the massif, taking up to three weeks.

★ Why go?

Highlights include the Annapurna Sanctuary, arid landscapes in Lower Mustang and lush forests around Ghandruk. There are hot springs at Tatopani -- which means "hot water" in Nepali -- and the promise of a chilled few days at one of Pokhara's lakeside lodges.

★ How to get there?

Numerous local tour operators organize treks starting in Kathmandu. Treks are usually cheaper and easier than Everest.

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