Restaurant: The Sherwood

Shanghai crabs (大閘蟹) from the rich waters of Yangcheng Lake in Suzhou, China, have a reputation for being the tastiest crustaceans on the planet. They have become such a prized commodity that when they're ready to eat, after feeding all summer on weeds and snails, they're immediately ringed and flown out to selected hotels and restaurants in Tokyo, Hong Kong, Taiwan and other Asian centers.

An opaque, plastic ring guaranteeing authenticity is attached to the live crab's claw because there are so many imitations out there masquerading as the real thing. Only Yangcheng Lake crabs, which have golden hairs on their claws, are a green-blue color and white underneath (until they are boiled) are the real deal.

Weighing about 220g to 250g, the luxury decapods have a subtle and refined taste that gets gourmands salivating. The ovaries, eggs and digestive glands of the female crab are particularly valued.

Chef Lam Yau Chang (林猷振) is from Hong Kong and has been at The Sherwood Hotel in Taipei for over 10 years. Every autumn he sets out to create a "heaven of delicacies" and this year Shanghai crab, king crabs from Thailand and Vietnam and virgin crabs from Pingtung are on the menu. "Everything is very delicate. It's Chinese food in a Western style," Lam says.

The meal starts on a subtle note with chrysanthemum tea, which perks up the taste buds without overcoming them. There are seven courses, but the steamed Shanghai crab served up whole with a delicate honey and lemon sauce rightly claims center stage. The rest of the menu frames the crab dish.

The starters of sauteed scallops with seasonal greens are followed by a large pan-fried king prawn in sweet and hot sauce. Then comes the snow frog soup with bamboo pith and beef rolls with wild mushroom. Taro cake and dessert finishes off the meal.

Apart from the Shanghai crab, Chef Lam's recommendation is the king crab. The various parts of the 1kg sea monster are served up in different styles. The starter is "live crab meat salad," which is a par-boiled claw pan-fried with Japanese seasoning. The standout dish, however, is the next course, deep fried king crab legs coated in a delicate yam flour so fine it's practically transparent and dusted with shrimp eggs. The wasabi, interestingly, does not camouflage the flavor of the crab, but instead brings it to the foreground.

In addition there are braised pea shoots with crab, crab claw soup with crystal noodles and crab dumplings, followed by a fresh fruit dessert.

For the finale, we were served up ginger tea to heat up the body (crabs cool it) and restore the body's balance of yin and yang. "Western chefs create just for the tastebuds," says Lam. "We Chinese chefs also think about the taste, smell and look. But we also consider what is good for your health and how to create a balanced meal."

This is fine dining at its freshest and best.