London food critics dig in with a vengeance

"I was relieved because I know next to nothing about food," he said.

With more such critics making reservations around town, Sitwell suggested that the best course for chefs and restaurateurs in London these days is to take a British approach, by keeping a stiff upper lip.

"If the failing of a restaurant becomes entertainment to someone, so be it," he said. "If they can't take it, they shouldn't open. It's not fair perhaps, but that's how it is, especially in London."