Taiping Mountain National Forest Recreation Area, located about two hours drive out of Ilan, is Taiwan's kingdom above the clouds. The former logging center was converted into a conservation area for Taiwan's hardwood trees, and is currently being developed into a full-service recreational resort.
It is famous for its picturesque mists, which seem to gather around the huge cryptomeria (also known as Japanese cypress) and Chinese cedar, and for a climate as unlike that of Taipei's as it's possible to get. The Taiwan Forestry Bureau, which manages the resort, has created accommodation for around 230 at this mountain getaway, and the difficulty in getting bookings is a testament to the appeal of the place for locals wanting to get away from it all.
Like Alishan (Ali Mountain) and Pahsienshan (Eight Immortals Mountain), Taiping Mountain was one of three major centers of the logging industry from the Japanese colonial period until the 1970s. According to Lin Hong-chung (林鴻忠), chief of the Lotung Forest District Office (羅東林區管理處), under whose mandate the forests of Taiping Mountain fall, this shift in utilization can be found in many former logging areas around the world.
"At first, the lumber is used directly for an economic return. Then, as environmental awareness increases, these precious reserves of centuries-old hardwood are preserved, and finally, the beauty of these areas is brought to a wider public through the creation of recreation areas such as this one," he said.
The area's logging past is something that he feels can be celebrated for the economic boost it gave to Taiwan, without encouraging the activity further. For him, logging has played its part in history, and now Taiwanese can start putting resources back into the forests that it has depleted.
It is something of an irony that one of the four major attractions, the primeval forest of Chinese cedar, has been preserved until today. "The trees in this area were not very attractive, many of them twisted and gnarled by climatic conditions, but for that reason, they avoided the saws of the lumberjacks, said a guide surnamed Jien.
The primeval forest, with its raised walkway, is a brilliant location for a stroll or what is described as a "green shower," in which the fragrant oils of the cedar and the negative ions in the air are supposed to produce all kinds of healthy effects. Lit until 11pm (though unfortunately not very evenly, making the walk a little more of an adventure than some might want), it is delightful to walk there in the evening -- and a number of lookout points provide good views of the sunrise, which has been called one of the 12 wonders of Formosa.
Another big draw at Taiping Mountain is the mountain rail that takes visitors to a spot called Maohsin (茂興), nothing more than a railway platform in the forest, where there are nature trails introducing a wide variety of ferns that grow in this land of mists.
This is also the departure point for the three-tier waterfall. It is currently the longest official nature trail in the Taiping Mountain resort, although according to Lin, at least five others are scheduled to begin construction, with government plans to create a national trail network. Currently, Taiping Mountain resort has been set up with the interests of the sedentary traveler foremost.
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