Thu, Jul 13, 2023 page13

• Oyster gathering, the traditional way

  In rural Changhua, a centuries-old tradition of oxen helping to harvest oysters continues, but its future remains uncertain

  • By Charles DeBenedetto / Contributing reporter
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  In Changhua County’s coastal village of Fangyuan (芳苑), “ocean oxen” (海牛) are trained to help harvest oysters, which is the dominant economy of the village. However, in recent years their numbers have decreased significantly.

  “Fangyuan would not be Fangyuan without ocean oxen,” says Hung Wu-hsiung (洪武雄), an elderly ocean oxen trainer.

  Although their numbers are diminishing, locals are working hard to preserve their culture, which dates back to the Qing Dynasty, when Fangyuan was a bustling port town.

  

  Hung Wu-hsiung and Han-niu in the low-tide water.

  Photo courtesy of Hong Yan-chao

  “Back in Fangyuan’s heyday, we were Lukang’s second port, and we had over 400 ocean oxen,” says Wu Wei-cheng (吳偉誠), principal of Fangyuan Elementary School (芳苑國民小學).

  But today, Fangyuan’s population has shrunk dramatically, and there are only eight of the bovines left.

  Ocean oxen are not a specific breed. They are trained to walk into the ocean, wait as oyster farmers load up their haul and then bring the cart back home. The large lumbering creatures learn the route from their home to the oyster field, so harvesters do not need to direct their oxen where to go.

  

  Oyster shell art at Fangyuan Elementary School.

  Photo: Charles DeBenedetto, Taipei Times

  Training an ocean ox can take years.

  “Some are well-behaved and easy to train,” Hung says, “while others are troublemakers.”

  A DIMINISHING CULTURE

  

  A canopy protects Han-niu from the sun. “My ocean ox is not a pet. He’s family,” Hung Wu-hsiung says.

  Photo courtesy of Hong Yan-chao

  Although some elderly residents still use ocean oxen, most of the harvesters today use machines because they are more efficient.

  “It takes about four hours to harvest oysters with an ocean ox,” Hung says. “But machines can work twice as fast. Also, they don’t need rest.”

  But some local residents, like Wei Ching-shuei (魏清水), leader of the Fangyuan Ocean Oxen Culture Association (芳苑海牛文化協會), are working hard to keep the culture alive.

  

  Hung Wu-hsiung and Han-niu walking home at the end of the day.

  Photo courtesy of Chen Hong-yun

  His association conducts ocean oxen tours, where guests can ride in an ox-cart and collect oysters and clams to grill. Several other ocean oxen owners also conduct similar tours.

  Wei says he’s trying to get the Fangyuan ocean oxen to be approved as a UNESCO World Heritage — an effort that the community hopes will bring new interest in this culture to Fangyuan’s youth, so they will carry on the tradition.

  UNCERTAIN FUTURE

  But success is far from certain.

  Despite the modest growth of the ocean oxen tours, it is unclear if this tradition will survive.

  “If people come, then our culture will not disappear,” says Huang Kuan-chang (黃冠彰), director of general affairs at Fangyuan Elementary School.

  “Fangyuan cannot lose our ocean oxen,” Hung says.

  In 2018, the school published a student-created picture book called Ocean Oxen’s Home (海牛的家鄉), which contains stories about all of the current ocean oxen owners.

  “In the end, our ocean oxen will almost certainly disappear. But the most important thing is to remember that they were here,” Wu says.

  TOUR INFORMATION

  For information about ocean oxen tours visit the Changhua County Tourism Bureau’s English-language Web site: shorturl.at/ioBC1

  Tours are conducted in Mandarin, are family friendly and will only depart at low tide. Because low-tide occurs at different times throughout the year, it is recommended to call in advance to confirm the departure time. Tours usually last about 2-3 hours. Although some tour guides speak English, it is recommended that at least one person in your party speak Mandarin in order to translate if necessary.

  Hung Yan-chao also offers tours. Tel: (0953) 911-378.

  Participants are encouraged to bring water, sunglasses and UV-protection clothing.
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