In the 2006 movie Island Etude (練習曲), a handsome young man with a guitar slung across his back rode his bike around Taiwan meeting a variety of interesting characters against a series of spectacular sceneries. Suddenly, everybody and their mum, including Ma Ying-jeou (馬英九), a candidate in the then-upcoming 2008 presidential election, was inspired to try the 1,000km circumnavigation of the island on two wheels.
At the end of 2015, the route received government sanction with the Ministry of Transport and Communications (MOTC) investing NT$1.2 billion (US$41.7 million at today’s rate) to link a dozen local cycle paths. This also helped bring the challenge to international attention, and led to local cycle stores offering quality bikes for rental and tour companies adding cycling options to their portfolios.
Another NT$3.2 billion was later earmarked for a four-year project of improvements and extensions, meaning that cyclotourists now have a plethora of routes to choose from, some sticking close to the coast, others presenting more challenging roads through inland foothills.
Photo: Mark Caltonhill
The first decision is whether to proceed clockwise or counterclockwise. The MOTC handbook Cycling Around Taiwan recommends starting at Songshan Railway Station (松山車站) in Taipei and traveling in a counterclockwise direction so “you can improve your fitness and become more skilled and comfortable on your bike before the more difficult sections.”
SUITED FOR ALL
If this makes it sound like unfit and inexperienced cyclists are encouraged to ride 100km in one day for the first time in their lives, and then repeat that for another 9 days, well, they are — since they are probably going to do it anyway. The round-island ride is almost a rite of passage for people graduating from university, or graduating from middle age.
Photo: Mark Caltonhill
Most local cyclists tend to set off from their hometowns; a few cycle clockwise, perhaps to avoid riding too close to the sheer cliffs that tumble to the Pacific Ocean along the east coast. Many eschew downtown Taipei altogether, since a full lap takes them around the north coast. A popular starting point is, therefore, Guandu (關渡), where the coastal route comes closest to the capital.
A display board near the bright red, 88m-high Guandu Bridge states that it was constructed in 1983. Before that, anyone wanting to cross between Bali (八里) and Tamsui (淡水) had to use one of the ferries.
The first ferry is recorded as operating in 1742, and they still run today, albeit largely for holiday-makers. It is tempting to think that this explains the origin of Guandu’s name, since it means something like ‘ferry at the pass,’ the pass being the gap between Guanyinshan (觀音山) above Bali and Datunshan (大屯山) behind Tamsui through which anyone arriving by boat would enter. But in fact, like so many Taiwanese place names, it is merely a transliteration of Kantaw, the Plains Aborigines’ name for the area, originally written as 干豆, pronounced gandao in Hoklo (also known as Taiwanese).
Photo: Mark Caltonhill
It’s probably too early for lunch, but if not, the She Family Mussel Restaurant (佘家孔雀蛤餐廳; no English sign) opposite the wharf is a good place for all things seafood.
BACK IN TIME
The Shihsanhang Museum of Archaeology (十三行博物館) 4km to the west is built on the site at which the first evidence of metal smelting was found in Taiwan. This indicated that the island’s prehistoric cultures started to transition from Late Neolithic Age to Early Metal Age around 1,800 years ago.
Photo: Mark Caltonhill
Knowledge of iron manufacturing made the local tribe wealthy, so a great many unusually fine artifacts were found in the hundreds of graves unearthed here when construction of a sewage treatment plant was started in 1989. It is well worth the NT$80 entrance fee.
Back on your bike, you will notice this route is signed as Round Island 1-1 (環島 1-1). This is because, as mentioned above, a considerable number of variations are on offer. The primary route (環島 1) goes from downtown Taipei to Sansia (三峽) and Dasi (大溪) with their historic/touristic old streets, before climbing across the foothills and into Hsinchu (新竹).
The coastal road, on the other hand, is flat and, due to prevailing northeasterly winds, can take your bike to rapid speeds. It is generally safe, however, as for long sections cars and trucks get to use an elevated expressway.
Photo: Mark Caltonhill
The two fishing harbors of Jhuwei (竹圍) and Yongan (永安) have been developed as tourist spots for selfies and snacks. Between them, the historic Baisha Cape Lighthouse (白沙岬燈塔) is worth a 10-minute diversion.
A visit to the Museum Pacific Cycles (太平洋自行車博物館) about 1km inland from Yongan will take considerably longer, however. For NT$300 you get to read about the bike history from the earliest German Laufmaschine of 1817 to the latest e-bikes, view more than 300 models including a vintage British penny-farthing, and watch a video about Pacific’s own models. Information is in Chinese, but an English-speaking docent is available for foreign groups.
Returning to the harbor, ignore the main road since there is a designated bike path from the car park that follows the coast and then cuts through the Xinwu Green Tunnel (新屋綠色走廊) to the Xinfeng Mangrove Nature Reserve (新豐紅樹林生態保護區). These are pleasant when quiet, but get very crowded on holidays, particularly with four-wheel, chariot-style rental bikes.
Photo: Mark Caltonhill
After around 7km, duck under the main road, and you’ll soon be offered the Township Road 1 (竹1). This will take you through a series of Hakka villages retaining many of the picturesque, original, red-brick houses.
Once back on the expressway it is just 7km till you cross the Toucian River (頭前溪) and enter Hsinchu City. Local delicacies include rice vermicelli (米粉) and meatballs (貢丸); both are found in abundance and a traditional setting at the night market beside the City God Temple (城隍廟). There is also a vegetarian restaurant in a lane to the west side.
Mark Caltonhill bikes, and writes, and writes about bikes.
Photo: Mark Caltonhill
Photo: Mark Caltonhill
Photo: Mark Caltonhill
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