Some plants are just unlucky in their names, and it is for this reason that cordia dichotoma may not have achieved great popularity in the kitchen, at least in the West. The scientific name is not particularly memorable, and its common names, which include “snotty gobbles” and “glue berry” are downright off putting. But cordia dichotoma is a valuable addition to the pantry and in its pickled form is widely available in Taiwan.
In Taiwan, cordia dichotoma is best known by the vernacular name pobuzi (破布子) and is most often found as a garnish to fish dishes. It often fulfills a function similar to that of capers in European cooking, with a slightly sour flavor that works particularly well with white-fleshed fish.
Cordia dichotoma is harvested around July. It has a short fruiting season and does not keep well, so it is most often preserved, sometimes by cooking and pressing into cakes or soaked a light brine, sometimes with the addition of ginger or other spices. In the former case it is sometimes already deseeded, but in the latter it usually comes with the seed.
Photo: Ian Bartholomew
The harvesting of cordia dichotoma is labor intensive and while the fruit can be used directly in cooking, I have yet to taste it this way in Taiwan. It is used fresh in Indian cooking, and may be known by its Hindi name gunda.
While the seed helps preserve the shape of the fruit, making it look more appealing on the plate, it does not allow the berry to reveal its full flavor. My own first acquaintance with it was in restaurant dishes when the berries are scattered atop a dish of steamed whole fish. The berries, which are small, generally get left behind on the plate as the tiny berries with their even smaller pips are not easy to handle when one is trying to feed oneself with some semblance of elegance. This is rather a pity, as the flesh of the cordia dichotoma is quite tasty and it also has various health benefits. In Chinese medical lore, it is regarded as a useful anti-inflammatory and also is said to help with the symptoms of high blood pressure.
When using cordia dichotoma it is recommended that the seeds be removed before the berry is incorporated into your food. An easy way to do this is to place a quantity of the berries into a small bag of muslin cloth and simply press down, pinching a little with the fingers. The flesh of the fruit will readily separate from the seed, which then can be easily picked out.
Photo: Ian Bartholomew
In addition to its usual pairing with fish, cordia dichotoma can also be used to particular advantage with tofu and some vegetables. Seeded cordia dichotoma can be mashed together with tofu to make a kind of savory pudding that is very nutritious and goes very well with warm white rice, and it can be incorporated into dishes such as stir fried bird’s nest fern, replacing the ubiquitous dried whitebait. At its simplest, it is sometimes simply fried and used as a garnish for a bowl of rice porridge.
Steamed fish and tofu with cordia dichotoma
Recipe
(serves two)
This is a really simple dish that can be put together in a matter of minutes with little fuss. The fish and cordia dichotoma give the tofu a lovely, subtle flavor and it is a perfect dish for times when you might be feeling a bit delicate.
Ingredients
200g sea bass fillets (or other fine-grained white fish)
200g firm tofu
About 10 berries of cordia dichotoma, seeds removed and minced
1 stem spring onion, julienned
1 nub ginger, finely julienned
1 chili, seeds removed and finely sliced
1 tbsp light soy
1 tsp sesame oil
White pepper
Salt
Directions
1. About 15 minutes before cooking, clean and slice the fish fillets and season with salt. Set aside.
2. Cut tofu into 1cm thick slices.
3. In a bowl, place a layer of tofu at the base. Sprinkle with minced cordia dichotoma.
4. Place a layer of fish, a bit more cordia dichotoma, then another layer of tofu. Three layers of each should be sufficient.
5. Drizzle with soy and sesame oil. Add white pepper and top with the ginger, spring onion and chili.
6. Bring a pot to a boil and place a steaming basket over it. Steam for 10 to 15 minutes with the cover on. Serve with white rice.
Ian Bartholomew runs Ian’s Table, a small guesthouse in Hualien. He has lived in Taiwan for many years writing about the food scene and has decided that until you look at farming, you know nothing about the food you eat. He can be contacted at Hualien202@gmail.com.
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