I am not a fan of lamb dishes, mostly because they are so hit-and-miss. If you take the soft and tender approach by roasting it, it often remains too raw inside and at times carries a gamey aftertaste that lingers uncomfortably in your mouth for hours. On the flip side is overcooked dry meat, which is just depressing and even gamier.
But my mother had been raving about La Piola Cucina Italiana’s agnello scottadito — slow cooked New Zealand lamb rack — pretty much since it opened in July of last year, and I finally decide to give it a try.
We try reserving Sunday lunch for a few weeks, but the place is always booked. However, on this particular Sunday, we are the only customers. The young and amiable Brazilian-Italian head chef Enrico comes to our table and introduces himself, and seems to be on friendly terms with many of the customers who walk in later.
Photo: Han Cheung, Taipei Times
Enrico says he comes from Rome, but the restaurant specializes in cuisine from the Piedmont region in Northwestern Italy — which are marked on the menu with “D.O.C.” — Italian for controlled designation of origin.
If you like multi-layered flavors and food that practically melts in your mouth, that is what La Piola is all about — from the lingua al verde (beef tongue salad with bagnetto, a Piedmontese basil sauce, NT$480) to the lamb (NT$880).
Tongue usually leans toward the chewier, even rubbery, side — but here it is slow-cooked so it dissolves right away, not unlike pate, but retains the savory beef overtones. The vinegar, bagnetto and olive oil plus the saltiness of the meat work together perfectly, making for a simple dish with very complex flavors.
Photo: Han Cheung, Taipei Times
The burrata (NT$460) cheese appetizer is simply refreshing. Served chilled, the cheese falls somewhere between fresh mozzarella and cream, and has a tangy kick that dances on your tongue while you soak in the richness as it, again, melts in your mouth. The combination of fresh and dried tomatoes highlights the sweetness and sourness of the cheese and vinegar, and provides variety in texture.
For one of the main courses, we ordered the plin al burro salvia parmigiano (NT$450), a Piedmontese stuffed pasta in butter, sage and Parmigiano cheese. The pasta resembles mini raviolis, stuffed with a mixture of finely ground pork and beef — and as a result, each bite tastes a bit different depending on the ratio of the type of meat. It is so finely ground that I almost mistook the stuffing for melted cheese — which pairs well with the sharp Parmigiano on top.
The gnocchi alla Bava (NT$550) comes in a sharp four-cheese sauce balanced out with sweet red wine vinegar and walnuts. It also melts in your mouth — but gnocchi is an example where some degree of chewiness would actually be better, as it comes off as a bit mushy.
Photo: Han Cheung, Taipei Times
Finally, the long-awaited lamb. My mother is right — there is no gamey aftertaste, or whatever left of it is muffled by the peppercorn mustard. The meat is tender and came right off the bone. Enrico tells us he prepares it using the “sous vide” method, which involves sealing the meat in an air-tight plastic bag and slow-cooking it for hours in a 57-degree water bath.
This allows the meat to be evenly cooked for a long time, and retains the juices, aroma and spices while avoiding over or undercooking. When the time is ready, Enrico takes the meat out and sears it just enough for just the outermost layer of meat to become well-done. No wonder it is so consistent.
After we pay, Enrico comes to say goodbye and even walks us out the door.
Photo: Han Cheung, Taipei Times
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