Sat, May 16, 2015 page12

• Know your onions

  Onions might be the workhorse of the pantry, but when they are allowed out on their own, they can really shine in the limelight

  • By Ian Bartholomew / Contributing reporter
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  Onions are so fundamental to cooking that they are often overshadowed by more exotic plants, but they are in fact remarkably tasty in their own right. The local onion season is drawing to a close, but there is still time to celebrate the fresh produce from Taiwan’s Hengchun peninsula, which are some of the finest you will find anywhere in the world. Purple and white onions are grown, but the most common, versatile and delicious is the simple brown onion. Bought fresh, these onions are bursting with juice and sweetness.

  The use of onions for food, and even as a medicine, date back to an almost mystical past. The US National Onion Association, in a short article about the history of the onion, points to a date 5,000 years ago when it says most researchers agree that the onion was being cultivated, though suggests that the use of wild onions would date much further back. It became an integral part of many culinary traditions, and in ancient Egypt it was even regarded as an object of worship.

  The pungency of onions may have been the reason for this exultation of an otherwise humble vegetable, with speculation that the Egyptians believed the strong scent indicated magical properties, or at least antiseptic ones, that would be beneficial in the afterlife. The Romans took a rather more down to earth approach to the benefits of onions. Gladiators are known to have rubbed themselves with onions to firm up their muscles (not something I’ve tried myself), but other medical lore related to the onion includes the belief that it could facilitate bowel movements and erections (hopefully not at the same time), relieve headaches, coughs, snakebite, hair loss and infertility.

  

  A simple onion tart really highlights the great flavor that the humble brown onion can deliver.

  Photo: Ian Bartholomew

  The jury is still out on whether these beliefs hold any scientific truth, but doctors today are pretty much unanimous on the importance of onions, or other members of the Allium family to which it belongs, to a balanced diet. Multiple studies have shown that eating onions provide protection for the heart and blood vessels when consumed in a diet that is rich in other vegetables and fruits. Onions have also been shown to help increase bone density, particularly for the elderly. And of course, the pungent onion is also a fantastic anti-inflammatory, not to mention its powerful antioxidant effect. Basically, an onion a day will keep you healthier for longer.

  Despite this, the onion has not always endeared itself to modern diners, who fear the lingering odor on their breath. The poet Jonathon Swift has pronounced on this issue, writing: “For this is every cook’s opinion, No savory dish without an onion; But lest your kissing should be spoiled, Your onions should be thoroughly boiled.”

  Onions are amenable to all kinds of cooking methods, but the ones chosen for boiling or braising are generally of a smaller variety than Taiwan’s famous brown onions. Miniature pearl onions (see illustration) are grown in Taiwan, but can only occasionally be found in traditional markets. Boiling these in a mixture of butter, sugar and water to build a rich caramel flavor creates a wonderful side dish, and they are also a lovely addition to beef or pork braises.

  

  A simple onion tart really highlights the great flavor that the humble brown onion can deliver.

  Photo: Ian Bartholomew

  The ubiquitous Taiwan brown onion is perfect as a base for all kinds of stews, and at its best and freshest can also be enjoyed raw. Sprinkle thinly sliced onions with salt and leave for 20 minutes, then squeeze out the liquid, drawing out the sharp flavors and retaining the sweetness. Toss with some tomatoes or flat leaf parsley, season and toss in olive oil, and you have a perfect refreshing side dish to complement a savory dish of meat or fish.

  Depending on how you prepare them, onions are able to bring a wide range of different flavors to your food. Indeed, the onion is fundamental to Mediterranean cuisine and is important in many other cuisines around the world. No less a personage than Julia Child pronounced that it would be “hard to imagine civilization without onions.”

  Apart from flavor, onions are very nutritious and also store and travel well. This has contributed further to their appeal across the globe.

  

  Onions come in many sizes and colors. The most frequently found in Taiwan are the large brown onion, perfect as a base for braises and stews, and the pearl onion, which is great boiled with butter and a pinch of sugar.

  Photo: Ian Bartholomew

  Recipe for simple onion tart

  (Makes 6 tartlets)

  I find that tartlets, with their higher ratio of crust to filling, work perfectly with the rich creamy onion filling. It is vitally important to allow the onions to caramelize thoroughly, bringing out a complex sweetness that defines this simple dish.

  Ingredients

  For the pastry

  220g plain flour

  pinch of salt

  130g butter, cubed

  100ml cold water

  For the filling

  50g butter

  500g small onions, (about 2 large), halved and finely sliced

  2 eggs

  1 cup (250ml) double cream

  60g coarsely grated cheese (emmental or gruyere work well)

  Directions

  First make the pastry shells:

  1. Weigh the butter then cut it into cubes. Place in the freezer for 5-10 minutes.

  2. Place about 100ml of water in the freezer to chill.

  3. Weigh out flour. When the butter is well chilled, mix lightly with flour then place in food processor and pulse until a course sandy texture is achieved. (Depending on the machine, this should take no more than about 5 seconds.)

  4. Pour into a bowl, add half the water and mix quickly with a wooden spoon, adding more water (a very little at a time) as needed to help the mixture come together. The mixture should not become wet and tacky.

  5. Roll into a ball then press into a disk. Wrap in plastic wrap and place in the fridge for at least 1 hour.

  6. Generously butter six 8cm tart molds. Press the pastry into the molds, prick the base with a fork and chill well.

  Then make the filling:

  7. Melt butter in a large skillet or saute pan. Add onions and saute over medium heat until soft, sticky and brown. Allow to cool slightly.

  8. In a separate bowl, add cheese, eggs and cream. Beat to combine and season with salt and pepper.

  9. Add the warm onion to the cream mixture and mix well.

  Put it all together:

  10. Add to the chilled tart casings and bake for 30 minutes.

  11. Remove from oven and allow to cool for 10 minutes.

  Turn out onto a wire rack. Serve warm.

  Ian Bartholomew runs Ian’s Table, a small guesthouse in Hualien. He has lived in Taiwan for many years writing about the food scene and has decided that until you look at farming, you know nothing about the food you eat. He can be contacted at Hualien202@gmail.com.
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