Yue Yuan (越苑) has gained a kind of cult following for its beef pho, or Vietnamese beef noodle soup, and bahn mi, or baguette sandwiches, since opening its first location last year off Dunhua North Road (敦化北路). Now it has a new branch, which opened in November between The Diner and Carnegie’s in an alley off Dunhua South Road (敦化南路).
According to Vietnamese Pho Noodles (www.lovingpho.com), one of many Web sites about “pho noodles for lovers of pho,” the soup should come garnished with fresh basil, bean sprouts, lime and sliced chili peppers, as well as the important cilantro.
All except the cilantro arrived at my table on a small plate immediately after ordering the rare steak pho (NT$140/NT$170). As I was searching around for the cilantro, my server came over to tell me that there was a shortage of it, apologizing profusely for its absence (though they still add it to the broth).
The “small” bowl that arrived soon after was much larger than anticipated. A nest of rice noodles at the bottom propped up slices of rare lean beef topped with shaved onions. I added the sprouts, basil and other garnishes and swirled it around, reveling in the fragrant smell.
The broth’s notable beef flavor was so distractingly good that I downed half the order before calling the server over to inquire about the bottles of hoisin and Sriracha Chili Sauce sitting on each of the restaurant’s white tables.
Pho purists say that hoisin and chili sauces should be added to the broth upon serving — that is unless the broth can stand on its own. My server, perplexed perhaps that I was asking after finishing much of the order, proceeded to add a half teaspoon of each to a small dish and told me to mix it up and either use it as a dipping sauce for the meat or add it to the broth. I did the latter because I’d already consumed most of the beef.
The mixture added a hot zing to the hints of sour lime and somewhat sweet basil. Next time, however, I won’t bother adding the condiments because the broth requires none.
Another reason to frequent Yue Yuan is its French baguette sandwiches. Generous portions of grilled chicken (NT$120, beef and pork versions are also available) came nestled inside the warm crusty baguette that I ordered. Sprigs of cilantro enlivened an already delicious combination of julienned pickled carrots and radishes and just the right amount of mayo and cracked pepper. Netizens are nuts about this hoagie and after one bite I could understand why. If you go, this is a sandwich you don’t want to miss out on.
Yue Yuan keeps its decor and menu simple. The clean and open interior features buttery yellow walls on one side and brick motif wallpaper on the other. The Chinese and English menu contains no pictures, though the numerous servers running around will patiently explain its contents.
Yue Yuan’s other location is at 12, Ln 155, Dunhua N Rd, Taipei City (台北市敦化北路155巷12號). Tel: (02) 2718-0660.
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