Satisfying a vegetarian diet is seldom an issue at restaurants in Taiwan, but being a vegetarian can limit the variety of eating experiences you have here. Veggie alternatives to traditional indigenous dishes might taste delicious but will never be quite the same experience as eating the "real" thing, and this was confirmed on a recent visit to a Gulu Gulu .
A popular spot for authentic indigenous cuisine, Gulu Gulu was opened last year in Taichung city by Paiwan singer Chiu Jin-ming (
Other recommended dishes include Taimali's pig knuckle, which is pickled with spices and millet wine to give it a unique tart and salty flavor, said Chiu's wife, who also works at the restaurant.
PHOTO COURTESY OF GULU GULU
Several of the dishes can be ordered separately for light dining or late-night snacking, but the best way to sample as much as possible is to opt for a set meal, which includes a starter, soup, main course, dessert and beverage.
It isn't often that starters are the main attraction but a slice of ah vai was said to be an exception. Ah-vai is a traditional Paiwan dish prepared with sticky rice, pork and peanuts, and wrapped inside two large leaves, which absorbs some of the oil but retains its flavor. Both the ah-vai and spicy tofu-based dipping sauce it is served with are made by Chiu's mother and shipped weekly from her Taimali village in Taidong.
Every set meal includes a small glass of millet wine, and even if is not your drink of choice, it would be a shame not to try one glass of vava-yoyo or ma pu lao (a stronger version).
The restaurant is a small colonial-style house converted into a two-floor dinning area, which also doubles as a gallery space exhibiting aboriginal art works. Large driftwood sculptures and mural paintings are intermixed with black and white photographs, depicting some of Taiwan's indigenous villages.
On the first floor is a small stage for daily performances at 12:30pm and 7pm. Although the scheduled time is one hour, the music often continues or starts up again later in the evening.
On this particular occasion, Chiu was accompanied by costumers from other tables and took to the stage several times in a two-hour period. The restaurant gets busy during the weekend so reservations are recommended.
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