Chi Tiao Tung (
Zum Fass' low-profile has not prevented its reputation from spreading by word of mouth. It is so popular, in fact, that tables there are booked solid almost every evening. The major attraction of Zum Fass is its traditional German and Swiss cuisine, which is among the most authentic you can find in Taipei.
PHOTO: VICO LEE, TAIPEI TIMES
As its name shows, Zum Fass was first started as a beer house by a group of Swiss businessmen. Handpicked German wines and their wives' homemade dishes made it a cozy place to relax after work. Business boomed, so they hired the late Swiss chef Alon Gruniger, who was responsible for most of the dishes on the menu.
Although most dishes now use less salt and are not so rich, so as to adjust to local tastes, Hsu Cheng-shun (
Chen is a diligent student of European cuisine, and for the last decade has been overseeing the kitchen, paying attention to details such as making sure that the right type of cheese is used in certain dishes.
Hsu is in charge of the bar, which boasts a comprehensive list of beers, cocktails, wines and schnapps.
Beef rolls (NT$460) are a favorite among German customers. The beef, lightly coated in flour, is sauteed and dressed with a fragrant sauce. The onion and cucumber inside add to the beef's flavor. Purple cabbage, marinated in a slightly sweet dressing, makes for an excellent side.
In Taiwan, the popular German dish roasted pork knuckle (NT$490) is often fried to make it crispy. Zum Fass does not take this short cut. The pork is roasted to the extent that it acquires a shiny dark red exterior and the meat becomes tender and the fat chewy. Also not to be missed is the cheese fondue (NT$650), an authentic rendering of a traditional dish.
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