Fri, Oct 26, 2001 page10

• Restaurant of the week: Pondok Mutiara Restaurant 明珠餐廳

  Address: 292 Fuhsing N. Rd., Taipei (北市復興北路292號).
  Telephone: (02) 2504-5791, 2504-5793.
  Open: 11am to 3pm; 5pm to 9pm.
  Average meal: NT$400.
  Details: English menu available. Credit cards accepted.

  • By Ian Bartholomew / STAFF REPORTER
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  Hidden among a jungle of restaurants on Fuhsing North Rd., Pondok Mutiara easily goes unnoticed, but it has long been a regular place for people who know about Indonesian food. It has been at its current location for over 12 years, and has been operating for 25.

  The decor is simple, with the Indonesian flavor provided by the batik tablecloths and a few carvings on the wall. Most important is probably Mother Chang (張媽媽), the original chef and culinary wizard of Pondok, who also provides a homey feel to the establishment.

  But the food can certainly compete with that offered by the fanciest restaurants. Tuck into the rendang sapi (巴東牛肉), beef cooked in coconut and chili. The big cuts of meat look a little daunting, but one bite and it just melts in your mouth. Long hours of simmering in the rich curry broth produce this splendid dish, and the gravy alone tastes excellent mixed with rice.

  

  Rendang sapi, an Indonesian classic, beautifully made by Pondok.

  PHOTO: IAN BARTHOLOMEW, TAIPEI TIMES

  "Indonesian food uses a lot of spices," said Clement Chang (張權), who manages the restaurant. "These spices are often very good for your health." But health takes a poor second place when tucking into the excellent food. Chili is one of the most commonly used spices, but for those who can't take it too hot, Chang emphasized that all dishes come at hot, medium or mild variations.

  One dish that reveals the skill of Pontok's chefs is the pepesan udang (荷葉燒蝦), a dish of spicy shrimps grilled in lotus leaves. The leaf outside is grilled till brown, releasing a gentle fragrance that manages to permeate the chili mixture in which the shrimps are marinated.

  A huge variety of Indonesian food is represented at Pontok and they are not shy about serving dishes such as ikan pecek bawal (煎魚拌辣醬) which makes use of odiferous shrimp paste. "It is similar to stinky tofu," said Chang. "People either love it or hate it."

  In addition, Pondok recognizes the Dutch influence in Indonesia with Risoles, also called Western spring rolls. "We use a wheat flour skin and the filling is chicken, butter and mustard," Chang said, adding that he had eaten almost exactly the same thing when visiting Holland.

  Another dish that has become an independent sideline for the restaurant is its kueh lapis (千層糕), a honey-flavored layer cake which has proved so popular that Pondok now sells them in gift boxes. Kueh lapis comes in two forms. "The original flavor uses butter and is very rich," Chang said. It is favored by Southeast Asians. A variant form, using vegetable oil is more popular with locals. "This dish was also brought to Indonesia by the Dutch," Chang said, although now it has become one of the best known Indonesian desserts.

  Pondok also offers a wide range of vegetarian dishes.
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