If in the past, liqueur producers were busy looking for new markets, then today they are wondering what the next trend will be in order to capitalize on the novelty effect. As in fashion, you have to play with what you have and through imagination and subtle marketing make the old look new.
Calvados has been around for 447 years but it is new in the sense that unlike French clarets, which are widely exported worldwide, the jewel of Normandy was until recently mainly consumed in France. Someone once said that French people tend to keep for themselves their best produce. This time, that's not the case, as production is limited and for a long time cognac was doing so well that any effort to counter the King of the Charentes would have been worthless.
Nowadays things have changed and the leading Calvados producers, among them Pere Magloire, one of the best-known brands, are promoting their products worldwide.
Calvados is made from the distillation of apple cider and produced only in certain areas of northwest France, where it is aged for at least one year in wooden casks and brought to a strength of 40 percent. Since 1942, Calvados has been divided into three categories based on area of origin: Calvados, Calvados from the Pays d'Auge, and Calvados Domfrontais.
The most renowned is Calvados du Pays d'Auge, which is distilled twice like cognac or whisky. The others are produced through continuous distillation. The Domfrontais is made out of a mix of apples and pears (at least 30 percent).
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
In the consumers' interest, the labeling of Calvados is strictly controlled whereas the older, the better:
Fine Calvados: At least one year
Calvados VSOP: four years
Calvados XO: 10 years
20 ans d'age: 20 years
But compared to other spirits requiring aging, Calvados reaches maturity faster, consequently making it more affordable. In Taiwan, you can pick up a bottle for about NT$1200.
For the neophyte, what matters is the taste and since consumers are leaning toward sweetness, at least when it comes to spirits, Calvados definitely has an edge. Actually it isn't sweet, bur rather slightly fruity, thus more palatable and popular as well among ladies.
It is a perfect after meal drink, served alone at room temperature in a cognac snifter to insure that its fragrances and flavors are at their best.
FROM CIDER TO SPIRIT
How apple cider turned into an alcohol called Calvados remains a myth. The distillation itself was mentioned for the first time in 1553 in the diary of Gilles de Gouberville, a “gentilhomme” (nobleman). In 1600, an association of the distillers was set to protect their rights and define their obligations.
Unlike cognac, which was exported at the beginning of the 18th century, Calvados remained a drink consumed locally until 1914. During the World War I, French soldiers not only got their daily quota of wine, but also occasionally received rum or Calvados to relieve their misery.
After the truce, the natives from Normandy settling down in Paris were the initiators of the Calvados culture. The name was shortened to “Calva,” which sounds a bit like ca va (pronounced SAVA) — the French term for “it's OK.” Workers would have one with their coffee early in the morning, mostly in winter before starting work. During meals, preferably the joyous ones, it became the trou Normand (Normandy hole) — a shot of it was swallowed bottoms up to facilitate digestion.
DRINKING WITH LOCALS
Given that visitors to France are aiming at new boundaries, hopping north west to the Pays d' Auge, the area where you will find the best Calvados, is worth the couple of hours' drive or train ride from Paris. The facilities of Pere Magloire are open to the public from Easter to November and the tour is enhanced by visiting a museum featuring tools dating back to the 18th century. The company is based in Pont L' Eveque, which is also home to one of the best and oldest cheeses in Normandy
Like wine, whisky or cognac, the advised consumer will search for Calvados older than those currently available. Unfortunately a 50-year-old vintage is a rarity.
The reason behind such an anachronism is simple. France was occupied during the World War II and the stocks were looted. On D-day, what was left, timorously hidden for six years, was graciously offered to the Allied Forces.
But not to worry, the Calvados makers are looking into the future, building up stocks to meet the growing demand.Editor's note: This is the first installment of our thrice-monthly food column. It will run Fridays, except on the first Friday of the month, when our Area Focus feature fills this space. Special contributor Ernesto Brawand is the host of ICRT's “Bon Appetit.” He will write on both local and international cuisine, combining practical tips with food history to give you the full flavor of his selections. If you have suggestions, please send them to features@taipeitimes.com.
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